Macedonia - Titov Vrv, 26/9/12

October 10, 2012, 2:53 pm

≫ Next: Snowdonia - The Snowdon Rollercoaster, 20/10/12

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The Šar Planina (Shar Mountains) massif extends some 50 miles along Macedonia's north west border with Kosovo. The range is home to many of the country's highest mountains, including Titov Vrv (Tito's Peak), the highest completely within Macedonia at 2747m/9012ft (Golem Korab, Albania/Macedonia's shared highest only tops it by 6m). As frequent visitors to Macedonia I thought it about time we ventured further afield than our usual haunts (the stunning Galičica National Park being such a place, not to mention the Belvedere bar/restaurant in Ohrid...)

Despite, or perhaps because of Macedonia's abundance of unspoilt mountain scenery, reliable information on upland walking can be a little sparse. However, after a bit of research on t'internet, I found what looked to be an excellent route to Titov Vrv - a circuit of just over 14 miles containing over 4700ft of steep ascent within the first 6.5 miles. Or, put another (better sounding) way - over 7.5 miles of downhill! The route out comprised high-level ridge walking par excellence. The route back, a gentle descent through picturesque pasture. 10-10.5hrs seemed to be the usual time to complete. I even managed to find an old Soviet, OS-style map of the area with the route marked. Result! It would be quite a tough trek given the lack of cover from the blazing September sun and the stiff climbs involved but Deb was up for it, which was all the encouragement I needed.

The walk began and ended at Macedonia's most popular ski resort, Popova Šapka, itself sitting at 1700m, or just over 5500ft in the heart of Šar Planina. Our plan was to drive up the night before and stop over, ready for an early start. Mindful that a ski resort might well be closed when there ain't no snow, we were relieved to find the Hotel Slavija open for business. It was the only hotel open and we were the only guests in this pinnacle of Socialist concrete design (in dire need of a refurb...and hot water)! However, the bedding was clean, the restaurant was open and the price was a bargain so we were happy.

Popova Šapka. Chalet-style Hotel Slavija top right

Sunset over Ceripašina from Hotel Slavija

Hotel Slavija's staff were brilliant, it has to be said. Over tea (or dinner, if you're posh) that evening, once our intentions had been made known, the manager provided much useful and interesting information on the walk. Our proposed route out, it transpired, was the 'professional' route! The manager gave us a handy tip on the best way up Ceripašina, the huge lump of a mountain that dominates Popova Šapka and the first and biggest climb of the day. Our time of 10+hrs to complete the walk was apparently a little pessimistic and 8 or 9 would be more like it. I explained that I had a habit of taking lots of photos and that Deb had little legs, to be met with one of those resigned shrugs that eastern-Europeans seem to excel at (almost as well as the French). The chap on the front desk helpfully chipped in that it would be a good idea to stop and eat at some point too....

We went to bed stupidly early but barely slept, excited about the impending adventure. It was still dark when we arose. We'd packed sandwiches for breakfast as we'd planned an early start, but the manager was having none of it and insisted on getting up early to cook us breakfast himself. Top bloke! So, after a satisfying breakfast of sausages, egg, cheese and planinski čaj (mountain tea) we stumbled into the early morning light with full bellies and fuller rucksacks and were off uphill immediately.

Ceripašina dead ahead

On the way up Ceripašina's slopes

Deb on the way up with Popova Šapka getting further away

Ceripašina rises to 2531m/8303ft, providing over 2700ft of relentless ascent in little over 2 miles. It wasn't even 7am and we were too bloody hot. We were carrying nearly 4 litres of water each (there's none on the ridge) plus warm/wet weather gear (we'd heard conflicting and not entirely encouraging forecasts for the day) plus lots of snacks (as usual). However, as we battled on upwards we were rewarded with the most jaw-dropping views which more than made up for the discomfort.

Deb toiling up Ceripašina's broad east ridge

Popova Šapka a long way down. The great Polog plain far below

Šar Planina - nearby peaks of Vrtop and spiky Kobilica

Vrtop & Kobilica

After almost 2hrs of constant uphill slog, things finally levelled out a little as we reached a dirt road at the top of the ski lifts on Ceripašina's subsidiary summit. The main top was a little higher and still a short distance away, but the going was much easier now.

At the top of the ski lifts. Main summit in the background

Ceripašina's domed summit above Bobinova Stena cliffs

As we passed the top of the ski lifts we got our first views down into the great northern valleys and along the rest of our route. The summit cone of Bakardan, Titov Vrv's next door neighbour poked up from behind the ridge some miles distant.

Nearing Ceripašina's summit with a view into Kazanište valley

Distant view of Lešnica valley between the cliffs of Plat and Sredni Kamen

Popova Šapka a long way away!

Last few steps to Ceripašina's summit

 We reached the summit of Ceripašina in 2hrs 15minutes, which was encouraging since what info I could find on the route had stated that the climb usually takes 2.5-3hrs. Knowing that we were ahead of pace meant I could relax a little, safe in the knowledge that we wouldn't run out of daylight (I'd already set a 1pm turn back time, which gave us a bit of leeway anyway). Deb settled into her second breakfast while I hooned around the summit, grinning like a loon. From here, the summit cone of Bakardan had been joined by its mirror image, the summit of Titov Vrv. Between the two, Turčin popped its head up over the ridge. Interesting(ish) fact, trivia fans: Turčin (Turk) used to be called Mal Turčin (Little Turk) because, prior to the inception of Tito's Yugoslavia, Titov Vrv used to be called Golem Turčin (Big Turk). Macedonia endured 500-odd years of Turkish Ottoman rule until the turn of the 20th Century.

Bakardan, Turčin and Titov Vrv on the left horizon, from Ceripašina

Deb's second breakfast on Ceripašina

With the biggest climb of the day now under our belts, we ambled along the grassy ridge top, marvelling at the 360 degree views, enjoying the solitude (no bugger about for miles around!) and experiencing absolute silence when the light breeze dropped. Brilliant! The ground underfoot was easy going. Soon we came to another climb, christened Y Garn by Deb, since it shared some similarities with that fine Snowdonian peak when approached from Llyn y Cwn. ie. it was a bit of a tedious slog. Thankfully, at only 300ft or so, it was over reasonably quickly.

Ambling along, leaving Ceripašina behind

A bit more slogging up 'Y Garn'

We were now at 2551m/8369ft on an unnamed top (so we may as well call it Y Garn) that provided a fine vantage point on to our destination. Across the grassy basin of the Vakaf valley, the great rocky east side of Bakardan rose like a perfect pyramid. Behind, and to the right, Turčin and Titov Vrv stood tall. The three-storey look out tower on Titov Vrv was clearly visible from here and gave some scale to the vista. Awesome in every sense of the word. Between us and Bakardan lay the almost flat top of Karabunar, our next destination. The climb up it's north (right-hand) end looked a wee bit steep from here!

Awesome view from 'Y Garn'

Bakardan, looking like a steep pyramid from here

We continued along the ridge and dropped down to a small col beneath the north end of Karabunar. It was indeed a very steep ascent of some 360ft. The path took a fantastic route up the very edge of huge, towering crags, looking down on the beautiful Lešnica valley far below. A stunning view that provided plenty of interest to look at on the several breaks we had on the way up!

Karabunar - looks steep and is steeper than it looks!

View into Lešnica from the col below Karabunar

Deb on the way up Karabunar. Did I mention it was steep?

A refreshing breeze whipped up as we reached Karabunar's flat, grassy top, which was a great relief. From this 2600m/8530ft summit we had a fine vantage point onto Bakardan and Titov Vrv at the head of the steep Gorna (upper) Lešnica valley. Another climb beckoned - that up onto Bakardan. Less steep than that just endured but longer with over 700ft of ascent. Deb was flagging a little and mentioned that she might not make the final pull up onto Titov Vrv. This wouldn't have been a problem as the return route crosses the outward route at the col below Titov Vrv, so Deb could wait for me there if necessary. However, she decided to get Bakardan out of the way first before making a decision.

The sizeable lumps of Bakardan (L) and Titov Vrv (R) from Karabunar

Bakardan ahead! The path follows the top of the crags all the way up

Titov Vrv from the side of Bakardan

Deb on the way up Bakardan

Me on the way up Bakardan

Heading up Bakardan. Karabunar behind.

We reached the top of Bakardan and I broke for lunch while Deb tucked into her third breakfast. This was a fine summit by any measure - compact, craggy and surrounded by steep drops. It felt like a big mountain, which at 2704m/8871ft, I suppose it was! We could see for miles around, into Kosovo, Albania and far into Macedonia. We could make out Golem Korab across mile upon mile of mountainous terrain. So much to explore!

Turčin & Titov Vrv from Bakardan. Nearly there!

A distant Golem Korab on the horizon

Bakardan's rocky top and a view back to our ridge-top route

View down into the Lešnica valley

Deb relaxing by Bakardan's fine cairn

From Bakardan we dropped steeply down its western side, zig-zagging through rocks and scree until we eventually reached the wide, grassy col below Titov Vrv. All that remained now was one more steep ascent of around 830ft before it was downhill all the way back! Deb was feeling rested after her third breakfast and recent spot of downhill activity so decided she'd have a crack at the main summit. Go girl! We'd agreed that I'd go on ahead and she'd follow at her own pace. If she wasn't close to the top by our 1pm turn back time, I'd head back down and collect her en route. However, it was only just midday, so I was confident we'd both see the top together with time to spare.

There are two routes up Titov Vrv from the col - a steep, direct climb straight up the east ridge or a slightly longer, more gentle climb across the southern flank to a col then up the less steep south west ridge. We both decided we'd go up by the direct approach and come down by the more gentle route. 45 minutes later a triumphant Deb was standing on the summit trig point. 46 minutes later she was tucking into her fourth breakfast...

You can do it! Last climb of the day

On the way up Titov Vrv with Bakardan behind

Yay! On top of the world

 As you might expect, the views from the highest summit in Šar Planina were simply jaw dropping. The pictures don't do it justice. From the dilapidated summit watchtower to miles upon miles of mountainous wilderness there were great views everywhere we looked. Unforgettable.

Titov Vrv summit. 2747m / 9012ft

Views to the north east

The beautiful Kriva Šija valley west of Titov Vrv

Cosmic Tetris. Rotate cloud and fit in hole

Glacial lake - one of several in the range

Kriva Šija again. Beautiful

Smiley

It was soon time to head back down. We took the gentle south west ridge down to the south col, enjoying marvellous views into Kriva Šija all the way. From the col we turned east and followed a path across the grassy south flank of Titov Vrv, leaving it after a while to make our way back to the main col below Bakardan.

Looking across Titov Vrv's south flank to Bakardan from the south col

View back to the summit tower from the south col

On the flanking path

 
The main col is also where the other main route to Titov Vrv comes up from Popova Šapka. Often known as the 'tourist route', it winds its way around the south flank of Bakardan then down into sheep pastures on a long and, for the most part, gentle descent back to the ski resort. We soon picked up the red and white route markings and began the decent, stopping frequently to admire the views from whence we came.

Titov Vrv from the path around Bakardan

Dropping into Kazani beneath Bakardan

Vakaf pastures beneath the ridge walked over earlier in the day

Stream in Vakaf - the first watercourse of the day

Deb in Vakaf

 As we dropped down through Vakaf, following the babbling stream down a small ravine, we turned a corner below a massive crag, widely known as Orlova Stena or Eagle Rock (although my map has Orlova Stena in the next valley!) Either way, it was big and impressive. Now, for the first time in hours we saw signs of civilisation, as a shepherd tended his huge flock on the slopes below. We were now on south facing slopes and sheltered from any breeze. It was sweltering! We found some shade behind a large boulder and took a break while Deb feasted on her fifth breakfast. The path soon dropped down to meet a dirt track. This was followed for a couple of miles, as it passed below the Bobinova Stena cliffs we'd seen from above all those hours earlier. As we got closer to Popova Šapka we left the track and headed down over the broad ridge of Srti i Bares which deposited us right below our hotel. Tired and with aching legs, we just about managed the steps up to the foyer and were pleased to hear the hotel manager had kept our room available so that we could freshen up. Fantastic service!

Eagle Rock. Huge

Heading down to meet the dirt track

Bobinova Stena below Ceripašina

Final walk back to Popova Šapka

We'd managed the walk in a respectable 9.5 hours which, given the amount of photos I took and the amount of breakfasts Deb had, was a very respectable time. We found out that temperatures had reached 31 degrees in Popova Šapka that day. It couldn't have been much less up on the tops when the breeze dropped. Our ample supplies of water ran out mere metres from the hotel!

We'd had an absolutely fantastic day in a truly stunning, unspoiled area. Unforgettable. As I sit here typing this while munching cornflakes from the box (I'm dead sophisticated me) the memories have come flooding back.

Best. Walk. Ever.

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Snowdonia - The Snowdon Rollercoaster, 20/10/12

October 21, 2012, 12:07 pm

≫ Next: Shropshire - Caer Caradoc and chums, 26/10/12

≪ Previous: Macedonia - Titov Vrv, 26/9/12

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The Snowdon Rollercoaster is the classic route that hardly anyone seems to know about. Coming in at around 13 miles, with a thigh-busting 5400ft of ascent, this fairly strenuous bimble starts and finishes in Llanberis. Taking in the long, undulating north west ridge of Snowdon and the glorious and usually deserted Llanberis ridge, the route can be attempted in either direction. Having previously completed a clockwise round, this time I thought we'd go widdershins (now there's a word I've never used before). Parking up beside Llyn Padarn we ambled up through Llanberis village and out onto very soggy pastures below Moel Eilio. The Met Office's Department for Ficticious Upland Weather Forecasts had predicted a bright, sunny morning with cloud and showers moving in for the afternoon....

A bright and sunny start, Met Office style

We were soon squelching up Moel Eilio's grassy north east ridge as a patch of blue sky drifted in from the coast. Encouraging. We looked back across to our route. Not so encouraging...

Blue sky over Moel Eilio

Deb on the way up Moel Eilio with Llanberis below

Ominous skies over the Llanberis Ridge and Glyderau range beyond

We soon reached the top of Moel Eilio. Despite the low cloud base air clarity was exceptional and we could clearly make out the Irish coastline. However, in order to stay ahead of a bunch of noisy buggers from darn sarf somewhere, we kept going. Next stop Foel Gron and Foel Goch, with plenty of up and down in between. The view ahead to Snowdon was constantly changing as cloud swirled around the tops. Every now and then a patch of sun would break through and illuminate the valley below. Unless we were very much mistaken, it looked like it might brighten up.

Cloud swirling up Snowdon's flanks

Sun illuminates the Hebog range

The rollercoaster route ahead. Snowdon still shrouded in cloud

We continued along the undulating rollercoaster ridge as the cloud base rose and our surroundings generally brightened up a bit. Eventually even the top of Snowdon cleared and we were treated to fine views in all directions.

Deb enjoying the view across Llyn Cwellyn to the Hebog and Nantlle hills

The same view without Deb enjoying it

Looking back to Moel Eilio as things generally brighten up a bit

Snowdon ahead, now cloud free

View across the Llanberis Ridge to Glyder Fawr, also now free of cloud

We eventually reached the flat top of Moel Cynghorion, last of the grassy lumps of Snowdon's north west rollercoaster ridge. Here it was both windy and time for lunch, so we ducked down to the deep col to pick up the Snowdon Ranger path and avoid one while enjoying the other.

A distant Deb reaching the top of Moel Cynghorion

Spurred on by the promise of a ham sandwich...

After lunch, a slog of around 2000ft saw us heading up the Snowdon Ranger path to the summit of Snowdon. At last the sun came out properly.

Looking back down the rollercoaster from the Snowdon Ranger path

Views across to Yr Eifl and the coast

Summit ahoy

Deb working her way up the Snowdon Ranger path

Extensive views and some sunshine

We reached the railway line and merged with the crowds heading up the Llanberis path. We'd forgotten it was the first Saturday of half-term. As a consquence, the last few metres up to the top were rammed with people. We hadn't seen it this busy for quite a while! I quickly took some photos before we beat a hasty retreat and headed up the last significant bit of ascent of the day, to the relative calm of neighbouring Carnedd Ugain.

Deb at the railway, still smiling. Always a good sign

Snowdon Mountain Choo Choo

The view down Cwm Dyli

Y Lliwedd behind the bulk of Yr Wyddfa

A steady stream of people heading for the top

Clear views across Crib y Ddysgl to Y Glyderau & the Carneddau

Next stop Carnedd Ugain, top right

We stopped for a break and a cuppa on the relatively quiet top of Carnedd Ugain. The weather had improved markedly and we could clearly make out the Isle of Man and Snaefell from here. We lounged around for a while and took a load more pictures before eventually beginning the journey back down, under a glorious golden afternoon glow.

Snowdon in afternoon shadow

The undulating crest of the Llanberis Ridge - our way down

Marvellous views to the north

Deb's new hobby of trig point climbing is going well

Enjoying afternoon views from Carnedd Ugain

Sun reflecting off the sea

Eschewing the convenient Llanberis path in favour of the ridge crest above, we enjoyed a wonderful descent over grassy knolls in stunning surroundings. The path below was heaving with people, but up here we had the ridge to ourselves, as is usually the case. The Llanberis Ridge is a gem of a route, up or down, yet rarely does it see any traffic.

Views down the ridge from the top of the Llechog buttress, part way down

Back up the ridge to Carnedd Ugain, from Llechog. Train on the way down

View across to Moel Eilio at the start of the walk

A few more up bits on the way down as we cross Tryfan

Crib Goch in view behind the ridge

Final view back up to the summit before we dropped down off the ridge

After a tiny bit more ascent across the multi-topped Tryfan, the Llanberis Ridge drops steeply back down to the valley. Here we veered across grassy slopes to meet up with the lower reaches of the Llanberis path, as the sun began to set behind the hills of the rollercoaster, across the other side of the valley. A fitting end to a marvellous day, topped off with a glass of refreshing (and in certain circles, legendary) cloudy lemonade from the equally marvellous Penceunant Tea Room on the way back down into Llanberis. (Deb says try the hot chocolate, it's awesome).

Sunset over the Snowdon Rollercoaster

PS. The Singapore Chow Mein when I got home was also marvellous...

Shropshire - Caer Caradoc and chums, 26/10/12

October 27, 2012, 4:10 am

≫ Next: Snowdonia - Snowdon via the Watkin Path, 7/11/12

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Having been too tired to get up at the crack of dawn and hoof it over to Snowdonia to meet the Chuckle Brothers in the Glyders, I instead opted for a lie in, followed by a half-day's walk in the considerably closer hills of Shropshire. Lacking the capacity for coherent thought and therefore any form of route planning ability, I'd decided a familiar 10-mile loop around Brown Clee was in order. Lacking the capacity for coherent vehicle navigation saw me an hour later parked up in a lay by outside Church Stretton, ready for a walk up Caer Caradoc. Meh, close enough...

Shropshire's mini-mountains, to the east of the picturesque town of Church Stretton provide much opportunity for piecing together walks, the areas of high level access land being linked up with a plethora of official rights of way. This particular wander took in the hills of Caer Caradoc (459m/1505ft), The Lawley (377m/1237ft) and Hope Bowdler Hill (426m/1398ft) and came it at just over 11 miles, with close to 2600ft of ascent.

I ambled up the stony track through Gaerstones Farm to a fine vantage point to Caer Caradoc, then slithered down the muddy track though the woods on Helmeth Hill to pick up the southern end of Caradoc's grassy ridge.

Caer Caradoc from Helmeth Hill

 The stiff pull up on to Caradoc was eased somewhat by the chilling arctic breeze and I soon found myself on the grassy, undulating summit ridge. Passing round the Three Fingers Rock formation I headed up over grassy slopes towards the top.

Heading up Caer Caradoc

Three Fingers Rock on the left, summit on the right

View down to Church Stretton with the Long Mynd rising behind

Looking back down to Three Fingers Rock, with Church Stretton behind

Nearing the top of Caer Caradoc, the day's next target, The Lawley hove into view. This whale-backed ridge and the distant Wrekin lie in a direct line with Caradoc, remnants of volcanic activity along the (still active) Church Stretton fault. The top of Caer Caradoc harbours an Iron Age hill fort, once home to the Cornovii tribe, and a small pool just off the summit that the OS map has labelled as a well. Probably a result of the same volcanic activity that spawned a lot of springs along the lower reaches of these hills...

The Lawley ahead, with the Wrekin on the horizon

On the top of Caer Caradoc with its hill fort and 'well'

  Not wishing to stick around in the freezing wind I dropped down off the steep north end of Caer Caradoc, over the subsidiary hump of Little Caradoc, before dropping down into the small hamlet of Comley, located between Caradoc and The Lawley.

Little Caradoc ahead, with The Lawley and the Wrekin beyond

The Lawley ahead

Local residents on Caer Caradoc's slopes

View back up to Caer Caradoc from Little Caradoc

Comley below, The Lawley ahead

From Comley I picked up the bridleway that skirts round the base of The Lawley on its western side. This runs almost level for a couple of miles to the northern tip of The Lawley's long, grassy ridge. Muddy in places, the path was littered with mushrooms of all sizes and colours, including some monster parasols (thanks for the ID Bill!), 'the sarze of dinner plaerts', as they might say in the Black Country.

Parasol mushroom with size 9 added for scale

The alien mothership has landed

Reaching the end of the bridleway I turned through 180 degrees, picked up the end of The Lawley's ridge and headed back towards Comley via the 'haute route'.

Heading up The Lawley from the north end

View back down the ridge towards the Wrekin

Summit adornment on The Lawley

View across The Lawley's grassy top

Coming down off the top I found a sheltered knoll and broke for a bite to eat, enjoying the view over the stripey plantation on Hoar Edge to the roof of Shropshire - the awesome towering dollop of Brown Clee...

View over Hoar Edge to Brown Clee

Behold the lofty grandeur of Brown Clee

Back in Comley, I took a lane eastwards before looping round onto the Wilderness -  a grassy, sheep manicured ridge that is probably the least wild spot in the area. It had begun to cloud over quite a bit by now but as I walked along the Wilderness, a brief patch of sun shone through, illuminating The Lawley behind me quite dramatically.

A lit up Lawley

The same view. Aah, the wonders of zoom lens technology

I took a quick detour off the Wilderness, down into the hamlet of Willstone. Not much to see, other than a picturesque farm and a couple of old houses, so after a brief conversation with a chicken I picked up a rocky farm track to take me back into the heart of the hills. I followed the track down to the Cwms Plantation, an incongruous clump of pine trees surrounded by grassy hill and pasture. Here I swung a left, squelching across soggy fields to the foot of Hope Bowdler Hill. A short amount of 'up' saw me on the summit ridge enjoying fine views back across to Caer Caradoc and down the ridge to the end of the walk.

View down Hope Bowdler Hill's ridge to the end of the walk

Final view back across to Caer Caradoc and The Lawley

A fine half day's walk in a lovely area. Barely saw a soul all day.






 

Snowdonia - Snowdon via the Watkin Path, 7/11/12

November 10, 2012, 2:43 am

≫ Next: Snowdonia - Arenig Fawr, Remembrance Sunday 11/11/12

≪ Previous: Shropshire - Caer Caradoc and chums, 26/10/12

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With Deb having a few days off work, we'd decided that a mid-week walk was in order. While deciding where to go we were contacted by Max, one half of BrodyrChwerthin Wrecsam (not a traditional Welsh folk duo as you might be thinking, but a rough translation of 'Wrexham's Chuckle Brothers', courtesy of Google). Max was taking Howie, the other half of the duo, out for a walk up Snowdon's Watkin Path and we could tell from his plaintive pleas that he wanted us there for moral support and sophisticated conversation. Oh go on then...

We arranged to meet at the Pont Bethania car park, at the foot of the Watkin Path on Snowdon's southern side. After negotiating seemingly endless roadworks and slow moving traffic (there seems to be a covert 40mph limit along most of the A5 that only the locals seem to know about) we arrived some minutes late, got booted up and were off. The summit was covered in a blanket of thick, grey cloud and there was moisture in the air but thankfully it wasn't raining as we walked up through the pleasant oak woodland on the lower flanks of Snowdon.

Deb on the lower reaches of the Watkin Path

Deb and BrodyrChwerthin Wrecsam

We eventually left the trees behind and followed the stony track up open hillside towards Cwm Llan, stopping to admire the impressive waterfalls on the way.

Heading up towards Cwm Llan

On the way to Cwm Llan, next to the falls

Max contemplates a quick swim

Cwm Llan is the scene of much historic activity and is littered with mine and quarry remains. Plas Cwm Llan, the ruined South Snowdon Slate Quarry manager's house stands at the side of the path, its glable wall littered with bullet holes. Not the result of irate quarry employees, but WWII troops training for D-Day in the area. It has earned the property the nickname "Bullet Hole Bungalow"

Bullet Hole Bungalow (aka Plas Cwm Llan)

The Watkin path was named after Sir Edward Watkin, Liberal MP and railway entrepreneur who retired to Cwm Llan. A track to the quarry through Cwm Llan already existed, so to enable visitors to walk all the way up Snowdon, Watkin created a path from the quarry to the summit. This, the first designated footpath in Britain was officially opened in 1892 by the 83 year old Prime Minister William Gladstone. He addressed a crowd of over 2000 people from a rock on the side of the path, which is now known as the Gladstone Rock. A plaque commemorates the event.

Gladstone Rock

The Welsh boys get all nostalgic

South Snowdon Slate Quarry barracks

We continued through Cwm Llan and up around the flank of Y Lliwedd towards Bwlch Ciliau. As we approached the bwlch we were met with freezing cloud and drizzle so away went the camera and out came the wooly hat and gloves. We trundled on along the path, struggling to catch up with Howie who had shot off ahead (yeah, I know, we couldn't quite believe it either). We left the Watkin Path below the tedious, loose scree littered upper reaches and headed directly up the edge of Snowdon's steep east ridge. This scrambly route was made all the more entertaining by the strengthening winds (both meteorological and Howie-induced), wet rock, patches of snow and Howie banging his leg on a rock. Oh how we laughed.

We reached the summit to be met with a gale and an ill-equipped young couple who seemed a bit worried about the prospect of going back down. They'd come up 'from the car park' we were reliably informed... We ducked round the side of the (closed) Hafod Eryri for a bite to eat. Howie, doing what anyone else would do on a cold, windy, dull, overcast day, put on a pair of sunglasses. This earned him the nickname 'Bonio' after legendary U2 singer and professional tool, Bono. It earned him several other nicknames too, none of which I am prepared to commit to screen.

Max and Deb bump into Bonio from U2 at Hafod Eryri

  
We decided a descent by the South Ridge was in order and enjoyed a relatively wind free crossing of the awesome, pinnacled Bwlch Main section. The thick cloud, while obscuring any chance of a view, added to the atmosphere on this fine, narrow ridge. An added bonus was the appearance of a solitary snow bunting on the way down. Eventually, we popped out of the cloud base to be met with a view of the pointy peak of Yr Aran ahead and the Hebog and Nantlle hills to the west, where the sun was trying to shine.

Lower reaches of the South Ridge. Yr Aran ahead

View across to the Nantlles and Mynydd Mawr

View back up the South Ridge from whence we came

Yr Aran ahead

Quarry workings at Bwlch Cwm Llan

We hurried on, mainly because Howie kept falling over and none of us wanted to be directly in front of him when he did. We soon reached the col of Bwlch Cwm Llan. Here Deb and Howie decided they wanted to head back down, so Max and I bid them farewell and watched them squelch their way back into Cwm Llan. We were heading up Yr Aran. Max knew a direct route to the summit which took a line up a gully behind a rock outcrop. It was steep, wet and very slippery (in a good way!) and eventually spat us out a few yards from the summit rocks. 

Max coming out of the top of Yr Aran's wet gully

Nearly there! South Ridge in cloud behind

From Yr Aran's compact summit we enjoyed the views over towards the coast, a thin sliver of orange light illuminating the sea between mountain and cloud, before heading back down to rejoin the others at Plas Cwm Llan.

Sunlit sea beyond Moel Hebog

 
The gentle walk back down through the woods was rounded off with a favourite tipple, a pint of Snowdonia ale from Capel Curig's finest hostelry, the Tyn-y-Coed hotel.

A rose between two thorns. Howie, Deb and Max

Great walk, great company, crap weather.

Snowdonia - Arenig Fawr, Remembrance Sunday 11/11/12

November 17, 2012, 4:11 am

≫ Next: Snowdonia - Up the Glyders, 13/1/13.

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On 11/11/12, Remembrance Sunday, a group of us set off for the outlying Snowdonian peak of Arenig Fawr. Our intention was to pay our respects at the summit memorial to the eight American aircrew who died when B-17F Flying Fortress #42-3124 crashed into the mountain on 4th August 1943.

We met up with 'the gang' on the minor road to the small Arenig settlement, on a fine, frosty morning and set off for a spot of tarmac bashing.

And they're off...

A few houses scattered along the road at Arenig

A couple of slow children, playing

A couple of locals

We soon reached the familiar track that took us away from the tarmac and up over moors to the reservoir of Llyn Arenig Fawr. A couple of people had been staying overnight at the bothy on the lake shore. When we arrived, they told us they'd just been for a quick swim. It was -4 when we left the cars!

Heading across moors to Llyn Arenig Fawr

Llyn Arenig Fawr

Heading off in to the sunrise

The Arenig bothy

From the bothy, we crossed the lake outflow (some by the precarious steel ladder, others by jumping - unfortunately no one fell in). From here the path turned steeper as it headed up alongside the cliffs of Y Castell. Reaching the plateau at top of the cliffs we got our first views of the summit. Sort of. The main top was shrouded in cloud, which, while promising to lift occasionally, didn't.

Franz Klammer

Tommo showing Howie how it's done

Llyn Arenig Fawr outflow

Leaving the lake and heading up

Gaining height

View across Llyn Arenig Fawr to the more distant Llyn Celyn

Heading up...

Still heading up. Llyn Tegid (Bala lake) in mist in the distance

Views to southern Snowdonia

Summit in cloud

Final bit of ascent before hitting the cloud base. Bala in mist below

We headed into the cloud layer and after a bit of wandering about in low visibility, reached the summit shelter and memorial.

Summit shelter and memorial

Remembrance Day tributes amidst plane wreckage

Deb's trig attack

 After paying our respects and devouring some of Max's stunning lemon drizzle cake, we set off for the adjacent south summit. This is a short walk from the main summit on a very good path and, despite the cloud, only the most navigationally challenged group of numpties could miss it. Which we promptly did, arriving back at the main summit after a 10 minute mystery tour around its slopes...

We finally located the right path and crossed over the cloud covered south top to descend steep grassy slopes on its far side, heading for the far south top, or was it the far far south top? There seem to be a lot of south tops to Arenig Fawr. We soon popped out of the clouds and crossed the knobbly, lake studded plateau where Arenig Fawr keeps its collection of far south tops.

Heading to the far south top

View back up to the cloud topped south top

Rock group

View across to neighbouring Moel Llyfnant

Unnamed pool

Max and Brian enjoy a spot of lunch

After lunch amongst the far south tops the group decided to head back down along the west flank of Arenig Fawr, while Deb and I opted to take in Moel Llyfnant across the valley. We crossed the exceedingly boggy bwlch and slogged up the steep slopes of Moel Llyfnant to reach the top just in time for the cloud to drop and obscure any chance of a view. Still, it was good exercise.Not hanging around, we began the descent down the northern slopes

The others head back

Deb and the twin tops of Arenig Fawr almost free of cloud

Cloud covered Arenig Fawr from the descent of Moel Llyfant

Mile upon mile of bog west of Moel Llyfnant

We eventually picked up an old farm track that passes the ruined farm buildings at Amnodd Bwll, before running through a conifer plantation to further ruins at Amnodd Wen. From here it was a case of following the extremely boggy track back to the car.

Barn at Amnodd Bwll below Moel Llyfnant

Sun illuminates a soggy Amnodd Bwll

Entering the conifer plantation

The ruins at Amnodd Wen

We met up with some of the others for a pint in possibly Bala's dodgiest watering hole (which shall remain nameless, but the fourth picture down shows two of 'em). Still, considering there'd been a murder in the early hours further along the street in Bala, I suppose 'dodgy' is relative.

As ever, a fine walk with some great company. 

Snowdonia - Up the Glyders, 13/1/13.

January 15, 2013, 6:12 am

≫ Next: Snowdonia - Carneddau Crazy, 20/1/13

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You hope that when the Met Office mountain forecast bandies around such terms as 'blue sky', 'amazing clarity' and 'sunny spells' with gay abandon that there is a very, very slim chance that it might not rain. I therefore took advantage of this potential let up in the monsoon season, encouraged further by the liklihood of some snow, to enjoy my first foray into Snowdonia of 2013. In fact, this was my first upland walk since wandering up the big Arenig on Remembrance Sunday back in November. I was hoping that an increase in running over the festive period had maintained my fitness levels enough to get some miles in. A route over the familiar Glyderau would be just the ticket for marvellous scenery, decent views and plenty of escape routes should my Christmas pudding enhanced waistline decide to protesteth too much. As it happens, I managed my intended 9 miles/3500ft of ascent in a little under 5 hours. And it didn't rain.

Starting along the A5 from the walled carpark at the base of Tryfan, I headed up and over old triple-top's lower slopes and dipped down to meet the main path heading up to Llyn Idwal. It was grey and overcast, with temperatures a degree or two below zero. Thankfully, the boggy expanse of grassland was freezing over nicely, making the going easy.

Joining the path to Llyn Idwal. Y Garn ahead.

  
The day's first target was Y Garn, looking respendent above Llyn Idwal and totally devoid of snow. Still, I was looking forward to a walk up its NE ridge - a refreshing change from my last half a dozen or so visits when it had been used as a descent. I lingered a while around Idwal, enjoying the splendour of the place. Not many people around today either, which was nice.

Glyder Fawr and Devil's Kitchen over Llyn Idwal

View back to Tryfan from Llyn Idwal's beach

Glyder Fawr, Devil's Kitchen, Llyn Idwal and a wall

I headed steeply up Y Garn's broad lower buttress and was grateful when it finally levelled out slightly upon reaching the lip of Cwm Clyd.

View back down to Idwal from Cwm Clyd

As I set off along the narrower reaches of the upper ridge, a bank of snow drifted in from the west, soon giving Y Garn's summit a light covering.

Snow drifting in from Elidir Fawr

Y Garn's top whitening up nicely

After a quick cup of tea at Y Garn's summit I was soon bounding down it's broad south side towards the plateau above Devil's Kitchen that harbours Llyn y Cwn, lake of the dogs. It was about this time I remembered why I usually did this route in reverse, as the tedious, loose, steep, scree-littered slog up to Glyder Fawr hove into view. Fortunately, on the way up Y Garn I'd had the foresight to call mountain rescue and order a bacon sarnie. The lads of 22 Squadron didn't disappoint and the big yellow Sea King appeared right on cue to air drop my parcel of prime porky goodness. Shame they forgot the ketchup...

Bacon sandwich sir?

22 Squadron out on manouevres over Y Garn

The pull up onto Glyder Fawr wasn't actually that bad - most of the scree and rubble had frozen solid, so the 'one step forward, two slides backwards' ascent was despatched far easier than usual.

Y Garn & Llyn y Cwn from the ascent of Glyder Fawr

Up here, 1000m above sea level, it was beginning to white over quite nicely and the air was filled with light flurries of snow. The moonscape plateau, on of my favourite spots in Snowdonia, looked wonderfully bleak with neighbouring Glyder Fach struggling to make its presence felt through the gloom.

Glyder Fawr plateau with Glyder Fach just visible

Circling round the top of Cwm Cneifion

It was feeling much colder now so I hurried on, circling round the head of Cwm Cneifion and across the promontory at the top of Y Gribin, before dropping down onto the path to Glyder Fach.

Glyder Fach ahoy.

Carefully picking my way through the boulders around the base of Castell y Gwynt I eventually popped out onto Glyder Fach's summit area. The view back across the rocky spires of Castell y Gwynt on to Glyder Fawr looked particularly nice today.

Castell y Gwynt to Glyder Fawr

I skirted round Glyder Fach's summit rock pile, not fancying an icy clamber to the top, passed by the Cantilever (no one posing on it today!) and ducked down to find shelter amongst the rocks at the top of the east ridge. Lunchtime!

The Cantilever, Glyder Fach

It was now downhill all the way back. I continued down Glyder Fach's east ridge, passing the semi-frozen Llyn Caseg-fraith and out on to the small promontory at the head of Braich y Ddeugwm. This ridge is a fine and seemingly barely used route on to the main Glyders and provides stunning views across to Tryfan's huge east face all the way down. Sometimes.

Tryfan somewhere out there, from near Llyn Caseg-fraith

I gently alighted from the end of the ridge at Gwern Gof Isaf campsite and followed the old road back towards Tryfan, passing Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite before picking up the A5 for the short walk back to the car.

Tryfan from the old road

 Beef Thai Style plus half of Deb's Singapore Chow Mein rounded off the day with an oriental twist. Lovely.













 

Snowdonia - Carneddau Crazy, 20/1/13

February 3, 2013, 9:43 am

≫ Next: Snowdonia - Snowdon via Rhyd Ddu, 2/3/13

≪ Previous: Snowdonia - Up the Glyders, 13/1/13.

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I'd been checking the Snowdonia webcams frequently during the 'Big Freeze' of January 2013 - the BBC's rather sensationist designation for what was nowt more than a spell of cold weather. Call it 'winter' if you prefer. Anyhoo, it was nice to see the hills were whitening up a treat despite being shrouded in dull, grey cloud for much of the time. With it all in danger of thawing over the next few days I shot over to Ogwen to meet up with team Wrexham, Max and Killy, for a circuit of the southern Carneddau. The plan was to head up the water company access road to Ffynnon Llugwy reservoir, climb up to the narrow ridge at Bwlch Eryl Farchog then head to Carnedd Llewelyn via the short scramble onto Craig yr Ysfa. From Llewelyn the plan was to work round to Pen yr Ole Wen and back down to Ogwen. What could possibly go wrong?!...

And they're off! Maxi-boy ambling along the A5 at the start of the walk

There didn't look like there was a fat lot of snow cover down at road level. However, as we left the A5 and turned up hill along the reservoir access road, it was soon evident that even just a few metres higher, things were much whiter. We plodded up the steep, icy road, along with a few other parties out today.

View down the Ogwen valley from the reservoir access road

As we neared Ffynnon Llugwy we passed a couple of photographers, their expensive SLRs on tripods aimed squarely at a bank of grey cloud. We thought it was an odd place to perch, given that the view here on a clear day was nothing to write home about. Still, we bimbled across their field of view, providing them with some foreground interest if nothing else. We left the broad track at Ffynnon Llugwy and headed off across the precipitous slopes towards Bwlch Eryl Farchog.

Leaving Ffynnon Llugwy for Bwlch Eryl Farchog

Gaining height, we left the other parties behind and ploughed our way through virgin snow, sometimes knee deep, sometimes deeper - tiring work. As we glanced back we saw the only patch of sunshine to appear all day, as the valley beyond the reservoir was bathed in yellow light. "Oi lads, spin yer cameras round!"

Ploughing up to Bwlch Eryl Farchog

Brief moment of sunshine lighting up the valley below

As the going got steeper and the drifts got deeper, the cloud came down and the wind whipped up. We stopped for a quick break, hoping the party of three behind us would overtake and do their share of the ploughing. No such luck. We stopped, they stopped and so it continued until we eventually popped out onto the narrow, corniced ridge of Bwlch Eryl Farchog. Try again. We stopped. This time the party of three came right up to us.....and stopped. It was soon evident that they were out of their depth - ill-equipped and borderline clueless. We left 'em to it, hoping they'd soon get the message and turn back...

We ploughed up the ridge to the rocky scramble on to Craig yr Ysfa and were relieved to see the numpties turn back. The scramble ahead was icy and required care to overcome, so we sent Killy up first in case it was too dangerous. He managed it, so we followed. The trap was now sprung - we weren't getting back down this way!!!

Max & Killy top out on Craig yr Ysfa

Up on Craig yr Ysfa we were met with a complete white out. It was impossible to discern sky from ground so we made our way carefully across the featureless void, walking on a bearing and mindful of the huge, yawning chasm into Cwm Eigiau somewhere on our right!! Every few minutes we'd have to stop to let our eyes readjust to the blank surroundings. Occasionally a distant rock would break through the snowy mantle and give us something to aim at...

Follow that rock

Max and Killy between a rock and a white place

Making sure we kept heading up hill we eventually got to the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn and dove into the modest shelter to duck out of the strengthening wind. Killy decided to get drunk while me and Max interfaced map with GPS to plot a safe route down. No point staying up high longer than necessary in zero visibility, strong winds and -21 deg. C windchill!

Killy having a summit session

-21.6 deg. C windchill on Llewelyn. Brrrr.

 Our plan now was to follow the narrows across Bwlch Cwfrwy Drum then, upon reaching the Black Ladders, turn south down the relatively gentle slopes of Rhiwlas. Co-ordinates duly entered in to Max's GPS off we set, driving blind straight into gale force winds that fired machine-gun spindrift into our eyes while trying to blow us into the nearest valley. Delightful. We eventually reached our turning point and began heading down hill, through uncharted territory. As we lost height the winds abated and we finally popped out of the cloud layer to see the Ogwen valley, still far below us but with only easy slopes barring the way. Thank (insert deity of choice) for GPS!

Our spirits were noticeably lifted now and not even Killy being sucked into a bog and on the verge of certain death could spoil the jovial atmosphere. Quite the opposite in fact. Oh how we laughed. We carried on bimbling down hill for quite some time, sinking into the occasional snow drift or flailing inanely across the top in a vain effort to stay 'afloat'... before sinking.

Max, mind the snow drift

Stumbling into the Ogwen Valley Mountain Rescue station's back yard at Bryn Poeth we finally reached the A5 mere metres from the cars. We wasted no time in rushing to the Tyn-y-Coed hotel so that Killy's bog-frozen toes could be saved from frostbite. (I never knew lager did that. You live and learn). Deciding that beer was for girls, me and Max necked a pint of blackcurrant squash each, in true intrepid explorer fashion, as only those who have returned from the brink can. A few girls in the bar swooned. We signed a couple of autographs and left. By the time I was on the road home the snow was coming down thick and fast...

Snowdonia - Snowdon via Rhyd Ddu, 2/3/13

March 5, 2013, 1:23 pm

≫ Next: Snowdonia - Snowdon in the Snow, 6/4/13

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With forecasts of sunshine and potential cloud inversions on the cards, we hoofed it over to Snowdonia to have a wander up the big 'un. It was indeed sunny as we belted along the A5, with ne'er a cloud in the sky. After some deliberation, Deb and I decided we'd head up the path from Rhyd Ddu (pronounced Ride Doo apparently. Makes a change from Rid Doo I suppose.) Mind you, tell any walker you get chatting to that you've come up from Rrrrrrrid (roll your arse) Thee and they look at you like you've got dribble running down your chin. And to be fair, the way I pronounce it, I usually have. Anyhoo, as we headed down the A498 from Capel Curig to Beddgelert, we made the obligatory stop at Llyn Gwynant for a few photos of pointy Yr Aran, reflected prefectly in the still waters this fine morning.

Yr Aran reflected perfectly in Llyn Gwynant

Glorious day for it

 We were soon parked up at the railway station in Rhyd Ddu and heading off. It was a glorious morning, warm in the sun but with a refreshing chill in the air. The summit of Snowdon was nothing more than a distant pimple above featureless slopes from here. It was still cloaked in snow but we'd packed our winter gear just in case.

The uninspiring bulk of Snowdon's south side from Rhyd Ddu

As is usually the case on this side of Snowdon, we had the path to ourselves as we enjoyed the fine rearward views to the Nantlles and Mynydd Mawr.

Y Garn and Mynydd Mawr tower over Rhyd Ddu

Deb enjoying the walk up

Snowdon ahead

Fine rearward views as we gain height

After a bit more uphill toil admidst pleasant but fairly featureless surroundings, the ground underfoot became rockier and we soon emerged onto the cliff-edged shoulder of Llechog. From here we enjoyed spectacular views into Cwm Clogwyn and across to Snowdon.

Rearward views from the rocky rim of Llechog

View down Cwm Clogwyn across the hills of the rollercoaster to Moel Eilio

Deb on the path across Llechog

Turning uphill across the head of the cwm towards Bwlch Main

We circled round the rim of Llechog and zig-zagged up the grassy slopes towards the meeting of the south ridge path at Bwlch Main. Here we came across the first snow of the day and it was easier to ignore the path and get on the crest of the narrow ridge. Like we needed an excuse - the narrow crossing at Bwlch Main is always best enjoyed from up top - almost like a gentler Crib Goch, with a marginally less fatal landing.

Hitting snow at Bwlch Main

Marvellous ridge walking, ignoring the icy flanking path on the right

"Clouds to the left of me....

Snowdon to the right....

Here I am, stuck here admiring the view..."

Deb crossing Bwlch Main

Fine views into Cwm Clogwyn

Deb enjoying the view

All too quickly, the ridge widened and we reached the broad slopes leading to Snowdon's summit. We began the steady plod to the top, gingerly picking our way across the consolidated remains of snow and around more timid parties.

Snowdon summit café - not far now

Steady stream of walkers on the Watkin Path

Deb on the final snowy pull to the top

As we neared the summit, I noticed a familiar face heading back down. None other than fellow Snowdonia fan and blogger Andy P. (see his excellent account of the day on A Redeye View ) We chatted a while before continuing on our separate ways - Andy back to Rhyd Ddu and us onward to the chaos of Snowdon's summit on a sunny Saturday afternoon...

Deb and Andy - great to see you mate!

The summit was packed as usual, but we hadn't seen it this busy for a while. Despite the snow and ice, all manner of jeans and trainer-clad types, with their carrier bags of Ginsters and Lucozade were mingling with the hardcore bobblehats. A smattering of ice climbers who'd been up the Trinity Face and a couple of roped up groups of teenagers, resplendent with axes, crampons and helmets completed this bizarre menagerie.

View over Crib Goch and the Glyders from the top of Snowdon

Busy summit

View west over to Moel Eilio

Lunchtime! We nipped round to the south side of the summit café to the relative quiet of the 'patio' and sat down for a scoff, enjoying some of the finest views around. All was going well until a noisy bunch of Scallies appeared, their falsetto gaggling, baseball caps and baggy tracksuits rendering them like a group of chav penguins. Still, we took some comfort in the fact that while they were up here with us, at least our hubcaps were safe. Didn't stop Deb throwing (or 'accidentally dropping' if you believe her) a drybag containing her fleece down the slope though. Thankfully it came to rest against a snow bank before it had chance to plummet over crags into Cwm Clogwyn, allowing me to nip down and retrieve it.

We had decided to head back down via the Ranger Path to Bwlch Cwm Brwynog, before taking in Moel Cynghorion, then heading back cross-country to Rhyd Ddu. Off we set, quickly leaving the summit melée behind.

Heading down

We took a brief detour from the Rangers Path to peer down the awesome precipice of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, its shaded llyn still frozen on this warm afternoon.

View down Cloggy to its frozen lake

Only one hat and pair of gloves on - must be warm

View down the Ranger Path

As we neared Bwlch Cwm Brwynog the pyramidal bulk of Moel Cynghorion towered overhead. After a quick break we began the relentless slog up its slopes, working up quite a sweat in the process.

Moel Cynghorion ahead

View back up towards Snowdon

Snowdon viewed from the climb up Moel Cynghorion

Another break was in order on the top of Cynghorion - a chance to admire Snowdon from this fine viewpoint, before enjoying a leisurely romp down its long ridge to Bwlch Maesgwm.

Snowdon from Moel Cynghorion's top

With added model

From Blwch Measgwm we turned down to meet the Rangers Path once again, following it back towards Snowdon for a short while, before leaving it at a ladder style to follow a faint path down to a prominent slate quarry. Once in the quarry we followed marker posts up, round and over various spoil heaps before appearing on the other side. From here further marker posts lead us through crags and sheep pasture directly back to the car park in Rhyd Ddu.

In the slate quarry. Snow capped Snowdon in the background

Mynydd Mawr from the quarry

Quarry ruins

A brilliant day out with fantastic weather throughout. Quite by coincidence it turns out we did the same walk almost exactly two years previously, to the day. The weather back then was identical! The day was rounded off with a mighty fine Singapore Chow Mein. Unfortunately no records exist for what I devoured two years ago. Probably a pizza. Mmmmmm, pizza.....

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Snowdonia - Snowdon in the Snow, 6/4/13

April 7, 2013, 10:22 am

≫ Next: Snowdonia - Y Glyderau traverse: Capel Curig to Nant Peris, 20/4/13

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With snow on the ground in the first week of April and sunshine forecast for the weekend, Deb and I didn't need too much encouragement to hoof it over to the Parc for a mess about on the big'un. Under winter conditions, a bimble up Wales' highest by the popular Pyg Track is a thoroughly entertaining way to spend a sunny Saturday. The fine views and awesome surroundings are always a lure and, if we're brutally honest, so is the chance to giggle at ill-prepared numpties struggling to crawl up the zig-zags under a good cover of snow.

We parked up at the Pen y Gwryd laybys to find Gwynedd Council were running a special offer on the pay & display. Or rather, the ticket machine was on the blink and spewing out two tickets for every one purchased, so we bought one off a fellow walker for two quid. Result. A passing cabbie touting for business pulled over and offered to take us up to Pen y Pass for a further two quid each. This would, apparently "save 45 minutes walk". We politely declined the offer in favour of walking up in 20 minutes, thus saving both two quid each and 25 minutes walk.

Heading to Pen y Pass on the new path running below the road

From Pen y Pass we picked up the Pyg Track and were soon walking through snow, enjoying the views down the Llanberis pass and up to Crib Goch.

Llanberis Pass

Heading up to Bwlch y Moch. Crib Goch ahead.

We soon reached Bwlch y Moch and the path crossed over onto the southern flanks of Crib Goch, revealing the fine view into Cwm Dyli, with Y Lliwedd towering over Llyn Llydaw.

Y Lliwedd & Llyn Llydaw from Bwlch y Moch

 We continued along the virtually level Pyg Track for a while, before starting to climb gradually towards upper Cwm Dyli. We spiked-up to make the going easier.

Yr Wyddfa, the summit of Snowdon up ahead

Glaslyn nestled below Yr Wyddfa

Y Lliwedd over Llyn Llydaw

Soon the lake of Glaslyn hove into view, nestled below Snowdon's steep eastern face. Always a stunning sight. From here we could spot other walkers further along the path, making their way towards the steep 'zig-zags' section below Bwlch Glas, the col separating Yr Wyddfa, Snowdon's summit, from neighbouring Carnedd Ugain.

Snowdon above Glaslyn

Spot the walkers heading for Bwlch Glas

Deb with a backdrop of Glaslyn & Snowdon

Alpine view back along the Pyg Track

We were already passing parties of ill-equipped walkers as they struggled to stay upright on the slippery path. Or rather 'paths' as there was often a potentially confusing choice of pre-trod routes over the featureless snow slopes. One rather well-spoken young lady in designer shades and fashionable down jacket was heard to remark loudly that 'they' really should provide path markers so that people would know where they were going. I resisted the almost overwhelming urge to kick her over the nearest cliff and hurried on. Hmm, 'overwhelmed', 'underwhelmed'. Is it possible to be simply 'whelmed' I wonder?...(update: Googled it and yes it is. Sort of.)

My word it was hot! We were soon down to our baselayers and sweating profusely. We were nearing the base of the zig-zags, scene of many a hysterical female and grown man resorted to crawling on hands and knees in winters gone by. Predictably, there was a concentration of those-who-have-no-crampons at this point. However, I am pleased to report that common sense does appear to be coming back in fashion, as several parties decided to turn round here and head back down. Fortunately Deb and I have never been accused of being fashionable. Far from it. We decided that the zig-zags were far too dull and kicked our way straight up the slope instead. I mean, come on, it's the best bit! Woo, yeah, high five. (Sorry y'all, I seem to have come over all American for a moment).

Leaving the path in search of fun

Marvellous ice formations on surrounding rocks

Short-cutting the zig-zags with wonderful views down Cwm Dyli

Heading straight up the slope

View across to Snowdon's awesome Trinity Face

At the final stretch up to Bwlch Glas we passed the bravest of those-who-have-no-crampons, clinging on to that fence post thingy with the coins jammed in it. We'll call him Mark (for that is his name) and he too was about to head back down after having had enough. We wished him well and carried on our way, soon popping out on to the main ridge at Bwlch Glas.

View back down Cwm Dyli from Bwlch Glas

Not far to the top now

View NW towards Moel Eilio and the coast

Lovely!

Phwoar!

The usual throng gathered between Bwlch Glas and the summit was much reduced on this glorious, sunny afternoon and we enjoyed a relatively crowd free lunch up top, in surprising silence and even more surprising warmth. A short while later we were amazed to see Mark make it to the top. His trick? Socks on over his boots for extra grip - kickin' it old skool! We took a photo so his mates would believe he'd made it and, after emailing it to him, am pleased to report he made it down safely!

Time for a few pics before heading back down...

View eastwards to Moel Siabod

South to Yr Aran and Moel Hebog

South east over Y Lliwedd

 We'd decided to head back down the top of the Pyg Track before branching off to take the Miners' Track back to Pen y Pass. Leaving Bwlch Glas we managed to get stuck behind a group of those-who-have-no-crampons who were gingerly shuffling along on their arses, so it was a great relief when we got past the initial top section and were able to reverse our route of ascent by bounding straight down the snowy slopes we'd toiled our way up earlier. Weeeeeeeeee. I was running down at a fair old pace (or lolloping along like a wounded hippo if you believe Deb) and we'd soon put a bit of distance between us and the Weather Girls Zone (It's raining men...).

Starting back down the top of the zig-zags

We turned off at a suitable point and headed steeply down towards Glaslyn to pick up the Miners' Track. We enjoyed a leisurely walk back to Pen y Pass, stopping frequently to admire the views back to Snowdon.

Cribau rising over Glaslyn

Yr Wyddfa towering over Glaslyn

Yr Wyddfa and Bwlch Glas from Glaslyn outflow

A slightly sunburnt Deb!

Heading down towards Llyn Llydaw

The Miners' Track snaking around the shore of Llyn Llydaw

View back up to the top from Llyn Llydaw

The Snowdon Horseshoe across little Llyn Teyrn

While loitering around the Pen y Pass car park prior to heading back down to the car, we were fortunate enough to bump into our Facebook and interweb buddy Cadair Idris Snowdonia (not to be confused with the mountain Cadair Idris Snowdonia which, as far as I am aware, isn't on Facebook). Great to meet you at last Ben!

 As usual, a brilliant day, brilliant weather blah blah blah...

Snowdonia - Y Glyderau traverse: Capel Curig to Nant Peris, 20/4/13

April 21, 2013, 2:44 pm

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I'd idly considered an end-to-end traverse of the Glyders on numerous occasions over the years but things never progressed much beyond the initial idea. However, stumbling across this year's timetable for the Snowdon Sherpa bus service on Thursday evening set me thinking again. On Friday night I'd formulated a plan and by 7:45am on Saturday I was parked up in Nant Peris, impatiently waiting for the arrival of the first Sherpa bus of the day at 8:15.

The queue for the 8:15 from Nant Peris

My plan was to get dropped off in Capel Curig then walk back to the car, taking in all the peaks on the main Glyderau ridge enroute. This would be a tough walk of around 13.5 miles with nearly 6000ft of ascent. However, there were a few options to cut it short if necessary. The following Google Earth thingy gives some idea of the route.

I alighted from the bus in a cool and sunny Capel Curig and by 9 o'clock, after a spot of meditation (nothing quite focuses the mind and body like a toilet door that unlocks itself automatically on a timer...) I was off.

Walk start point at the Capel Curig car park

I strolled up the lane past the Joe Brown outdoor shop and up onto the low ridge, Cefn y Capel, that overlooks the village. Initially pathless, I simply headed uphill, around rocky outcrops, until the ridge levelled out and became more defined. A faint path appeared through the grass and this was followed. To the right I had views of the eastern outliers of the Carneddau above the busy A5, while to the left rose Moel Siabod's gentler side above Llynnau Mymbyr. Ahead the ridge dipped before rising steeply to the first summit of the day, that of Gallt yr Ogof. The Snowdon Horseshoe peered cheekily around its flanks.

Pen Llithrig y Wrach and Creigiau Gleision tower over the A5

Gallt yr Ogof ahead. Snowdon in view far left

A distant Snowdon, while Gallt yr Ogof looms ahead

 The surroundings were quite boggy. Understandable given the recent snow and subsequent thaw. The ridge was covered in shallow pools and most of these were full of frog spawn.

Frog spawn aplenty

The pull onto Gallt yr Ogof was quite steep, but over quickly enough. The path conspired to bypass the summit and head off towards Y Foel Goch, so I took a small detour up bouldery slopes to stand on the top proper and enjoy the view.

The eastern Carneddau from Gallt yr Ogof

The route onward to Y Foel Goch and the big Glyders beyond

A small amount of descent led across a very boggy col (scientifically tested at calf deep - glad I had my gaiters on!) to a short climb onto the next top of Y Foel Goch. Another excellent viewpoint and excuse to take more photos...

Rearward views to Gallt yr Ogof (L) and Cefn y Capel (R)

Next stop Glyder Fach (L) with Tryfan (R) left for another time

Snowdon across the valley

Glyder Fach ahead

Between me and Glyder Fach lay the broad, grassy expanse that harbours the pretty Llyn Caseg-fraith. This area is boggy at the best of times so I expected the worst. Surprisingly, it was reasonably dry so I wandered over to the shores of the llyn and its surrounding pools to take the same selection of pictures of Tryfan I always take when I'm passing this way!

Tryfan over one of Llyn Caseg-fraith's neighbouring pools

Tryfan over Llyn Caseg-fraith

Glyder Fach over Llyn Caseg-fraith

Leaving the water behind, I headed onward to Glyder Fach, the grass now turning to rock as I gained height. The air was clear and I enjoyed fine views over Bwlch Tryfan, down the glaciated Nant Ffrancon valley to Anglesey.

Long distance views down Nant Ffrancon

On Glyder Fach's rocky summit plateau I saw the first signs of life since leaving Capel Curig, as a handful of walkers milled around the cantilever or arrived from the top of Bristly Ridge. I headed over to the huge jumble of boulders that is the actual summit and made the short scramble to the top to take some more pics, before heading off around Castell y Gwynt enroute for my next port of call, Glyder Fawr.

Snowdon (L) & Glyder Fawr (R) from Glyder Fach summit

Snowdon from Glyder Fach summit rock pile

Castell y Gwynt

View down to Tryfan from Bwlch y Ddwy Glyder at the top of Y Gribin

View back towards Glyder Fach

Glyder Fach viewed from Glyder Fawr's moonscape plateau

A few more people were milling around on Glyder Fawr's pinnacled top but it was surprisingly quiet for such a fine, sunny day. Not wanting to hang around, I carried on, dropping down the scree filled gutters to Llyn y Cwn before plodding up the tedious slopes to Y Garn.

View from Glyder Fawr - next stop Y Garn

I arrived on Y Garn at exactly 12:30 - lunchtime! The top was fairly busy but I found a flat rock in the summit shelter and made myself comfortable while I tucked in to my sarnies and had a much needed cup of tea. The crowds soon continued on their way and I was joined in the shelter by a couple of chaps who'd come up via Elidir Fawr and were hoping to bag the two Glyders, before heading down towards Pen y Pass.

View back down to Llyn y Cwn and Glyder Fawr from Y Garn summit

Ogwen's finest from Y Garn. What a view!

Face suitably stuffed and legs suitably recovered (almost) I continued on my merry way, dropping steeply down Y Garn's north side before climbing gently to the grassy top of Foel-goch, another fine viewpoint into the Ogwen valley.

The view from Foel-goch. Gallt yr Ogof visible behind Tryfan's north ridge

Another steep descent led me down Foel-goch to Bwlch y Brecan. Here the main path leads round to Elidir Fawr, my final destination of the day. However, I first took an out-and-back detour, via Mynydd Perfedd to the outlying summit of Carnedd y Filiast, the northernmost peak of the range. A steep initial pull with tiring legs thankfully led quickly to a flatish grassy ridge, with a stone field and shelter indicating the top of Mynydd Perfedd and a rocky spine denoting the summit of Carnedd y Filiast a km or so further on.

View back to the Glyders from the rocky top of Mynydd Perfedd

View from Mynydd Perfedd to Carnedd y Filiast

The Atlantic Slab on Carnedd y Filiast

Elidir Fawr over Marchlyn Mawr reservoir, from Carnedd y Filiast

Y Glyderau from Carnedd y Filiast

View down to Bethesda, the Menai Strait and Puffin Island

Retracing my steps to Bwlch y Brecan, I scooted across the rocky crest overlooking Marchlyn Mawr and began the final ascent of the day - that to Elidir Fawr. Despite protesting legs, the climb wasn't too bad and it didn't take long to reach the top. A stiff breeze was blowing so I sheltered amongst the summit rocks and enjoyed another cuppa.

Looking down on Marchlyn Mawr

View back to Foel-goch (R) from the climb to Elidir Fawr

Rearward view from near the top of Elidir Fawr

With all the ascent out of the way, all that remained was the downward journey back to the car park at Nant Peris. I ambled along the summit ridge of Elidir Fawr for a while before turning down grassy slopes. Eventually I picked up a flanking path and followed this down through the lower reaches of remote Cwm Dudodyn, passing by great spoil heaps from the massive Dinorwig slate quarry, with Snowdon looming ever larger ahead. I reached the car at 4pm, celebrating an awesome walk with a refreshing can of Lilt - oh yeah.

Looking back up to Elidir Fawr's summit ridge from the descent

Peaceful Cwm Dudodyn

Nant Peris below with Snowdon ahead

Final view back to Elidir Fawr, with Dinorwig spoil heaps.

Snowdonia - Cadair Idris with a crunch, 30/3/13

May 7, 2013, 3:29 am

≫ Next: Snowdonia - Southern Carneddau circuit: Pen yr Ole Wen to Llyn Cowlyd, 4/5/13

≪ Previous: Snowdonia - Y Glyderau traverse: Capel Curig to Nant Peris, 20/4/13

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With snow still on the ground we decided a walk up Cadair Idris by our favourite route, the Minffordd path, was in order. I'm writing this some 5 weeks after the event (lazy git that I am) so the finer details of the day are a little hazy...


We started in warm sunshine up the knackering steps from the Dol Idris car park then hit the snowline on the walk into Cwm Cau.

Blue skies, warm sun. Has spring sprung?..

...No, no it hasn't. Here's the snow.

Craig Cau ahead

Craig Cau looming over Llyn Cau

We veered away from the lake to take the steep path up to the south bounding ridge of the cwm. The snow got deeper and more consolidated as we gained height, making progress easy. And crunchy. Further along the ridge the snow turned to ice and shimmered brightly in the sun. Very pretty.

Movin' on up

Southbound views towards Plynlimon

Penygadair, Cadair's summit, across Llyn Cau

Ice is nice

We carried on up and over Craig Cau and onto the final pull up to Penygadair, the summit of Cadair Idris. Here, a lot of the snow had gone, leaving only ice behind. In places there was a gap of a few inches between icy crust and underlying grass - it was very satisfying to crunch our way up!

View to Penygadair from Craig Cau

Mynydd Pencoed from Craig Cau

Looking down a big 'ole to Llyn Cau

Shimmering icy slopes

Llyn Cau far below

View back to Craig Cau from Penygadair's slopes

Crunching our way up in the sun

As we neared the summit a few other parties appeared from various directions, many of them ill-prepared and slithering around on all fours. It seems like Snowdon is not the only peak to attract the numpties in winter! We dined within the gloomy confines of the summit shelter before heading off across the summit plateau to the next top of Mynydd Moel.

Summit view to Llyn y Gader and Cyfrwy

View across the plateau to Mynydd Moel

Corniced northern escarpment

Deb heading up to Mynydd Moel. Craig Cau & Penygadair in view

Craig Cau and Penygadair from Mynydd Moel

Penygadair and views to Barmouth  from Mynydd Moel

The summit plateau between Penygadair and Mynydd Moel was covered in the same icy crust that we'd walked over earlier. We wondered if we could take our crampons off as it seemed like such easy going and we were breaking through the crust with every step. Our answer came in the form of two blokes near the top of Mynydd Moel who, without crampons, were sliding around, flailing and grasping at each other to prevent themselves from falling. It was like watching a couple of drunks performing ballet. We kept our crampons on...

We watched a couple of ice climbers coming up Mynydd Moel's main gully before heading back downhill towards the top of the Minfordd steps, enjoying views into Cwm Cau as we went.

Ice climber on Mynydd Moel

Views across to Cwm Cau and the route of ascent

Back in the valley, we stopped for a quick cuppa at the recently opened Cadair tea room. Very reasonably priced and recommended! There is a good, free exhibition on the flora, fauna and geology of Cadair in the adjacent building too.

"I hope this bird feeder doesn't fall on my head"

Snowdonia - Southern Carneddau circuit: Pen yr Ole Wen to Llyn Cowlyd, 4/5/13

May 7, 2013, 7:29 am

≫ Next: Lake District - Blencathra via Hall's Fell Ridge, Doddick Fell and Sharp Edge (twice), 1/6/13

≪ Previous: Snowdonia - Cadair Idris with a crunch, 30/3/13

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After a thoroughly enjoyable end-to-end traverse of the Glyderau range a couple of weeks ago, employing the excellent Sherpa bus service, I was keen to see what other linear walks I could cobble together. The Carneddau seemed like an obvious choice and initially I'd hoped that a walk across the tops from Idwal Cottage to Capel Curig would be readily doable. Unfortunately, the Sherpa service along the A5 between these two destinations seems to be, at best, very sparse. I therefore ended up settling on a circular route, beginning and ending at the long lay-by outside Gwern Gof Uchaf campsite.

16+ miles and 5100ft of ascent, starting bottom left

It was overcast and quite chilly when Deb and I set off along the A5 for the short walk to the track at Glan Dena at the start of the ascent to Pen yr Ole Wen. The main tops were shrouded in cloud as we made our way up boggy ground alongside the stream tumbling forth from Cwm Lloer. Still, at least it wasn't raining...

Crossing a stream near the start. Llyn Ogwen and a hidden Y Garn in view

Fording the Afon Lloer

View back across a cloud-capped Tryfan and the Glyders

Rugged views back down towards the A5

As we reached the lip of Cwm Lloer and the base of Pen yr Ole Wen's rocky east ridge it started raining. We scrambled easily up the lower part of the ridge and were soon heading into cloud. Thankfully the rain abated as we reached the featureless top of Pen yr Ole Wen.

Start of the scrambly section on Pen yr Ole Wen

Considerably easier than it looks!

View down to Ffynnon Lloer before we get engulfed in cloud

We didn't hang around on Pen yr Ole Wen due to zero visibility and carried on along the well marked path towards Carnedd Dafydd. Every now and then the cloud would lift slightly and we would become aware of other walkers on the ridge, only to be returned to apparent solitude as the cloud closed in again.

Cloud clearing slightly on the way to Carnedd Dafydd

Again, we didn't hang around on the summit and pressed on towards the day's high point, Carnedd Llewelyn. As we crossed the ridge atop the Black Ladders the wind stiffened and the cloud began to break up. We were soon treated to fantastic views as we began the plod up Llewelyn's broad summit slopes. The headwind made progress slow at times so it was with some relief that we found shelter in some rocks on the leeward side of the summit and broke for lunch under fine blue skies.

Llewelyn's slopes appearing above Bwlch Cyfrwy-drum

Deb heading for Carnedd Llewelyn

Fine views east to the afternoon's destinations

Toiling up Llewelyn's summit slope in strong winds

View back towards Carnedd Dafydd

View east from Llewelyn to our next destination

Having filled our faces we continued on, dropping down eastwards across the top of Craig yr Ysfa before down-scrambling to the narrow grassy col at Bwlch Eryl Farchog. We crossed the col and climbed up the short, scrambly ridge at its far end, to the top of Pen yr Helgi Du. This grassy top provides a fine viewpoint back up to Carnedd Llewelyn and down to the reservoir of Ffynnon Llugwy.

At the top of the scramble down to Bwlch Eryl Farchog

Pen yr Helgi Du and, behind, Pen Llithrig y Wrach from Bwlch Eryl Farchog

Deb on Bwlch Eryl Farchog, with Craig yr Ysfa on the right

Climbing up to Pen yr Helgi Du

Fine views back to Carnedd Llewelyn...

...and down to Ffynnon Llugwy. The Glyders in view across the valley

From Pen yr Helgi Du we continued east, dropping down to the grassy col at Bwlch Tri Marchog with its fine view north into the vast Cwm Eigiau. Our final(ish) climb of the day saw us soon after reach the top of Pen Llithrig y Wrach, where we collapsed in a heap and marvelled at the precipitous slopes down into the deep Llyn Cowlyd far below.

View down Cwm Eigiau from Bwlch Tri Marchog

View back to Pen yr Helgi Du and Carnedd Llewelyn

View across to the Glyders.

View back across our route, starting at Pen yr Ole Wen on the left

Deb reaching Pen Llithrig y Wrach's summit

View down to Llyn Cowlyd

 From Pen Llithrig y Wrach the usual and sensible thing to do is follow its south ridge back down towards the A5. So we headed north, along pathless terrain overlooking Llyn Cowlyd until such time that we could pick our way down through bands of crags and scree to meet the bridleway that runs along the west shore of the lake. Here we were thrilled to see a pair of Ring Ouzels flitting around the rocks.

Heading north and down. Easy going despite no path

Dropping down to Llyn Cowlyd. Creigiau Gleision rise on the far shore

Following the good path along the lake shore

We followed the good lakeside path back south and disturbed a pair of waders (birds that is, not over-sized anglers' wellies) at the water's edge. I was unable to identify them but they were of the turnstone/sanderling/sandpiper ilk. Possibly passage migrants. Interesting to see either way.

Eventually the path rose towards the lake inflow at its southern end and took us onto the top of the large, boggy moor that runs along the entire valley from Capel Curig to Ogwen. A right of way marked on the map running down to meet the A5 at Helyg was not discernible on the ground and I didn't fancy the odds on staying dry trying to find it. We therefore picked up the 'towpath' of the man-made leat that feeds Llyn Cowlyd with drainage from the south side of the Carneddau and followed it for a couple of miles until it rounded the foot of Y Braich, Pen yr Helgi Du's south spur. It was while following the towpath that we were delighted to see half a dozen wild Carneddau ponies grazing on the slopes of Cwm Bychan. A lovely sight. Unfortunately the breed has suffered heavy losses this year due to the severe winter weather.

Leat feeding Llyn Cowlyd

View back up to Pen Llithrig y Wrach

Sluice gate on the leat - well seized!

Sluice gate

Ambling around Y Braich in the afternoon sun

    From Y Braich we picked up a faint path that led, without too much of a bog-fest, back down to the A5 at Helyg. We crossed over the main road to pick up the old road, which we followed west along the valley and back to the car.

View up the Ogwen valley as we head down

The view the other way, towards Capel Curig

A long and tiring walk, especially with the buffeting winds throughout the afternoon, but the constantly changing scenery and contrasting terrain always kept it interesting. I did idly consider tacking Creigiau Gleision on to the end, instead of heading back alongside Llyn Cowlyd. However, a) my legs ached enough the next day as it was and b) Deb would probably have killed me.

Lake District - Blencathra via Hall's Fell Ridge, Doddick Fell and Sharp Edge (twice), 1/6/13

June 3, 2013, 6:17 am

≫ Next: Snowdonia - The Snowdon Horseshoe...sort of, 8/6/13

≪ Previous: Snowdonia - Southern Carneddau circuit: Pen yr Ole Wen to Llyn Cowlyd, 4/5/13

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It's been twenty-odd years since the first and last time I walked in the Lake District. I blame it on the relative proximity and accessibility of Snowdonia's wonderful peaks. Either way, Deb and I decided it was about time we rectified this poor state of affairs and ventured 'oop north' to see what we were missing. Now, I am about as familiar with the lie of the land in the Lakes as I am with the surface of the moon, so some frantic scouring of maps and trawling of the internet duly ensued. We finally settled on Blencathra, for two main reasons - an ascent of the (in)famous arete of Sharp Edge and the fact that the mountain (hill? fell? what do they call 'em up there?) sits right beside the A66 just a few miles from the M6 junction at Penrith. I'd leave such trivialities as what route we'd take back down until we got there.....It transpired that we came down by both Doddick Fell and Sharp Edge, after going back up to the top by the rather splendid Hall's Fell Ridge. My fault, I thought it would be bigger....

The route: 9 miles and over 4300ft of ascent

An early start saw us parked up in a layby on the A66 near Scales Farm and ready for the off at 9am. It was warm and sunny as we made our way around the broad base of Scales Fell, heading for Sharp Edge round the back of the mountain/hill/fell.

Start of the walk near Scales Farm

Scooting round the base of Scales Fell

Curious sheep. Far more tame than their Welsh cousins

As we headed up around the rim of Mousthwaite Comb the path levelled out into the River Glenderamackin valley. This was a lovely, quiet spot, offering easy progress towards the rocky ridge of Sharp Edge now visible on the left at the head of the valley.

River Glenderamackin flowing down the valley, Sharp Edge ahead

As we drew nearer Sharp Edge, the path turned to climb up alongside Scales Beck, cascading from Scales Tarn hidden from view somewhere up above. Here we came across a few other walkers and exchanged pleasantries. We stopped from a quick break beside the tarn before heading up to the foot of Sharp Edge.

Climbing up beside Scales Beck

Quick breather at Scales Tarn. Sharp Edge providing the backdrop

A short climb away from the tarn saw us reaching the foot of Sharp Edge and scrambling easily onto its crest. We skittered across the fairly narrow top in glorious sunshine, barely noticing the notorious 'bad step' (harbouring no problems today but an entirely different proposition in the wet I am led to believe. With the ridge being of slate and polished in places, I can well believe it). In no time at all, we'd crossed the ridge and were met with the steep upthrust of Foule Crag, bastion of the fell tops above. This too offered easy going, nudging into enjoyable grade 1 scrambling territory. Deb took a line up a prominent gully on the right while I clambered up the slabs to its left.

Deb on the lower part of Sharp Edge

Looking along the crest to Foule Crag

Enjoying the edge in the sun

Downclimbing the 'bad step'

Nearly at the end of the ridge

The  gradient eased as we reached the top of the crag and we walked up slatey ledges to meet a good path that soon deposited us at Blencathra's main summit, Hallsfell Top.

Atop Foule Crag, with Sharp Edge below

Sharp Edge and Scales Tarn

View SW from the summit to a subsidiary top. Skiddaw rising on the right

The views from the top of Blencathra were most impressive, taking in great swathes of the Lake District to the south. We could make out Helvellyn and the Scafells, along with other well-known tops I'd read about over the years; evocative names like Wheelbarrow, Sergeant Bilko, Kenn Dodd and Don't-tell-him Pike. (Think I might need to invest in some maps and a decent guide book or seven...)

It was 11am. A descent now would see us back at the car in time for an early lunch. The conventional 'classic round' of Blencathra follows up an ascent via Sharp Edge with a descent down Hall's Fell Ridge - purportedly a very fine route with a narrow, scrambly top section. Now, call me old fashioned, but I prefer my scrambly top sections to be in ascent, where I can extricate maximum enjoyment from the rock in front of me (and see all the holds!). We therefore decided we'd descend by neighbouring Doddick Fell and come back up by Hall's Fell Ridge. We set off east down grassy slopes and, after casting a glance back over to Sharp Edge, turned south down the narrow upper reaches of Doddick Fell.

Looking back over to Sharp Edge and Scales Tarn before heading down

Top section of Doddick Fell

A good path led us down through heather then grass, all the while providing fine views back up to the tops. The lower we dropped, the larger Hall's Fell Ridge loomed over on our right. We were almost back at road level as we picked up the path skirting round the base of Blencathra's southern ridges and headed across Doddick Gill, round the fellside to pick up the path heading back up.

Heading down Doddick Fell with main summit in the background

Doddick Gill below the main summit

 A good path zig-zagged up the steep lower reaches of Hall's Fell. We puffed and panted our way up in the heat and soon met with other walkers coming down off the top, including some we'd passed earlier on the ascent of Sharp Edge! After a few confused glances they confirmed it was indeed us, heading back up, muttered something about being loonies and left us to it. As the gradient eased slightly on a broad shoulder we broke for lunch. The route ahead was narrower and rocky and led directly up to the summit. Although a bypass path conspired to avoid as much rock as possible, a direct route straight up the ridge crest was nowhere difficult and provided some very entertaining scrambly sections. Shortly before 2pm we were back on the summit of Blencathra, after having enjoyed a fine second ascent by the excellent Hall's Fell Ridge.

On the way up Hall's Fell Ridge

Enjoying hands on rock action

A quick rest for tired legs

Nearly back at the summit, enjoying some easy scrambling

The summit was noticeably busier than our earlier visit, with people arriving from all directions. We wondered about a route back down - Scales Fell looked a little too gentle and uninteresting, Gategill Fell looked pathless from where we were, and very steep in its lower reaches. There was only one real option - back down Sharp Edge (Now, call me old fashioned, but I prefer my scrambly top sections to be in descent)! Deb didn't fancy it so she took the walker's path down to Scales Tarn while I headed back over to the top of Foule Crag and started down the gully. The route in descent was noticeably easier than in ascent (or perhaps I just knew what to expect and my legs had loosened up by then). In any case, it was over too quickly and a semi-intentional run back down the loose scree path to the tarn could have ended badly were it not for the soft grassy landing near the outflow! I collapsed in a heap and enjoyed the sunshine while Deb came down the other path to meet me. We then retraced our steps from earlier that morning, back to the car, resolving to not leave it quite so long before our next visit to the Lakes...


 

  

Snowdonia - The Snowdon Horseshoe...sort of, 8/6/13

June 10, 2013, 2:39 pm

≫ Next: Gear Review: Scarpa Baltoro GTX (UPDATED 10/7/13)

≪ Previous: Lake District - Blencathra via Hall's Fell Ridge, Doddick Fell and Sharp Edge (twice), 1/6/13

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After a week of summery weather (a whole week!) and the sunshine set to continue into the weekend, it would be daft to expect Snowdonia to be anything other than a bit busy. Particularly so following the revelation that a popular walking magazine was hosting its annual All-the-gear-no-idea-athon in the Parc. Happily resigned to this fact and actually quite warmed to the idea of a crowded day in the hills, I can only attribute this uncharacteristic bout of cheery acceptance to too much exposure to the aforementioned sun. Ah well, in for a penny... I thought I might as well pick the busiest destination of them all, old pointy top itself, highest mountain in Wales & England (and by the same rationale, Hungary, Latvia and the Netherlands) - Snowdon. Or more specifically, the Snowdon Horseshoe. Or more specifically, not quite the Snowdon Horseshoe. Sort of. If this classic 'must do' ridge walk has any bad bits, it's the scrappy, scree-riddled east ridge descent from Snowdon summit to Bwlch y Saethau. If this classic 'must do' ridge walk has any unfortunate omissions, it's the delightful Grade 1 scramble up the Cribau ridge from Glaslyn to Bwlch y Saethau. You can see where this is going... Ladies and gentlemen, I give you the Snowdon Horseshoe (Sort of):

11.5 miles and 4800ft of ascent

I'd long ago given up attempting to park at Pen-y-Pass at any semblance of a reasonable hour, especially since the major price hike. However, I was still surprised to see the lay-bys on the Nant Gwynant side of the Pen y Gwryd hotel full to overflowing at 8:30 on a Saturday morning. A quick three point turn (my driving instructor would be proud) saw me ditch the car in one of the few remaining spaces on the Capel Curig side of the hotel. Within a matter of minutes I was off walking, taking the new path below the roadway up to Pen-y-Pass and soon breaking into a sweat in the already hot, erm...heat. There were several groups of people milling around the car park at Pen-y-Pass so I passed straight through and picked up the Pyg Track, heading for Bwlch y Moch.

Llanberis Pass view from near the start of the Pyg Track

On the Pyg Track. Crib Goch rising ahead

The lower reaches of the Pyg Track weren't that busy but as I crested Bwlch y Moch I thought I'd stumbled upon some sort of festival. Dozens of people sat around everywhere! I hurried through the melée and turned off the main path, up towards Crib Goch and relative quiet again.

Y Lliwedd across Llyn Llydaw from Crib Goch's east ridge

Nearing the top of Crib Goch's east ridge

Atop Crib Goch, with the knife-edge ahead

  The scramble up Crib Goch's east ridge was shared with only a handful of others and once on top of the main ridge it wasn't too busy either. After catching my breath I carried on along the knife-edge section, enjoying walking along the airy crest with only an occasional cooling breeze for company.

View back along Crib Goch's knife-edge arete

I soon caught up with a slower moving party and dutifully took my place in the queue, shuffling along behind them at a snail's pace. Thankfully, they were making their way along the side of the arete, using the crest as a handrail. As they dropped down slightly I saw my chance. "Cashier number 4 please" came the call as I took my place at the head of the queue, in an impressive overtaking manoeuvre that Formula 1 drivers can only dream of. The Pinnacles came next and it was over the first, round the second and up the third. I put some distance between me and the other group, eventually alighting at a deserted Bwlch Coch.

Traffic jam ahead

Reaching the Pinnacles after overtaking the traffic jam

View towards Llanberis through a gap in the pinnacles

Snowdon looming large over Glaslyn

Looking back at the descent of the Pinnacles

Deserted Bwlch Coch

More easy scrambling over Crib y Ddysgl's blunt knife-edge came next and before long I was at its summit trig point, enjoying the view with a handful of others.

View back down Crib y Ddysgl towards Crib Goch

Summit of Crib y Ddysgl (aka Garnedd Ugain)

View across to Snowdon

Next came the short pull to the summit along Snowdon's very busy main trade route, shared as it is between several of the main paths to and from the top. As usual, the Pyg Track marker stone seemed to be the place to congregate. It was nice to see the Snowdon Mountain Railway's new heritage carriage, The Snowdon Lily on its way to the summit station, under steam power courtesy of 'Enid'. I do rather like the trains on Snowdon, despite never having ridden in them!

View down Cwm Dyli on the way to the top

Heritage carriage under steam power

Bet it's warm in that locomotive today!

View towards Y Lliwedd from the summit

Snowdon's summit was, surprisingly, not that busy. I suppose most people were sat around at the Pyg marker stone or still down at Bwlch y Moch enjoying the festival I'd imagined was going on. The glorious weather meant that most people had vacated the summit café, Hafod Eryri, so I snook inside to get my first proper look since it opened. Most impressive. I even queued for twenty minutes to buy an overpriced bottle of Fanta, for the full tourist experience. I did manage to resist buying an 'I climbed Snowdon the hard way' T-shirt from the gift shop though. A decision I now regret. I'm running low on T-shirts.

Sufficiently bloated from the effects of knocking back a bottle of fizzy orange pop in one go, I stumbled back outside, my eyes readjusting to the harsh daylight and myriad day-glo clad walkists. The traditional Snowdon Horsehoe route would usually see me plunge down the east ridge, on a rollercoaster ride of slippery scree. However, now it was time to break with tradition, throw off the shackles of convention, to go off grid, to pioneer new routes, plough my own furrow, tickle my own fancy (!), to boldly go where most people have gone before.... back down to the Pyg Track marker stone, down the zig-zags and down the Miner's Track to Glaslyn.

Heading down to Glaslyn

On Glaslyn's shore. Cribau ridge rising up to the right

 My word, the Pyg and Miner's tracks were heaving with people. Hundreds of 'em all over the place and all of them heading in the opposite direction to me. This provided some entertainment as I jogged down against the flow (I'm easily pleased). Think fairground dodgems meets Playstation. I coasted to a stop on the shore of Glaslyn, took my cap off and dunked it in the cool water before slapping it back on my head. Aaah, refreshing. I spent the next few minutes pretending I was standing behind a waterfall, until the water stopped cascading off the cap's peak. Told you I was easily pleased.

I crossed over the Glaslyn outflow stream and struck off up the path flanking the grassy, easy angled lower reaches of Cribau. Soon leaving the path, I scrambled up a huge, easy angled slab to gain the crest of the ridge then ambled along, across a narrowing to where the ridge-proper rose steeply ahead.

Snowdon over Glaslyn from the outflow

View towards Snowdon from the lower part of Cribau

Narrowing and steepening ahead, at the start of the main scramble

Staying near the crest of the ridge I enjoyed simple scrambling in a wonderful situation, in solitude. All too quickly the ground levelled out and I reached the grassy Bwlch y Saethau. Fortunately it was lunch time so I picked a grassy knoll and catched some sun while munching on me sarnies. Despite my proximity to the popular Watkin Path, it was well hidden from view and I enjoyed a peaceful alfresco dining experience, while a busy Snowdon towered overhead.

Watching a paraglider over lunch

Fine views to Snowdon and its busy summit

It was soon time to be on the move again and I stuck to the edge of the precipitous cliffs overlooking Llyn Llydaw as I made my way over to Y Lliwedd. Avoiding the path that conspires to avoid the best bits I stuck as far left as I dared to maximise the views, exposure and scrambling on the way up to Y Lliwedd's west peak.

Heading for Y Lliwedd

View back to Snowdon and the prominent Watkin Path

Y Lliwedd east peak from west peak

East peak from west peak, with a view down to Nant Gwynant

View across Yr Aran to the Hebog range from Y Lliwedd

Following the path over Y Lliwedd's twin peaks then down over Lliwedd Bach, I looked back upon a perfect view of mountain ruggedness, across Y Lliwedd's huge cliffs to Snowdon and Crib y Ddysgl. Lovely.

Awesome view

The scrabbly path soon levelled out as it reached the valve house on the shore of Llyn Llydaw. I took a detour to the water's edge for another cap dunking session, before rejoining the Miner's Track. This lead steadily back to Pen-y-Pass from where I retraced my steps back to the car at Pen y Gwryd.

Final view back to the Horseshoe from the Miner's Track

A fantastic walk in great weather (actually it was too hot if I'm honest!), providing a worthwhile variation on the traditional Horseshoe route to maximise the amount of scrambling. This was my first time back on Cribau for a very, very long time and I'd forgotten how good it was. Shame it's not longer.

Gear Review: Scarpa Baltoro GTX (UPDATED 10/7/13)

June 20, 2013, 3:40 am

≫ Next: Lake District - Helvellyn's Edges, plus a bit - 29/6/13

≪ Previous: Snowdonia - The Snowdon Horseshoe...sort of, 8/6/13

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For the last couple of years I've been mainly wearing Scarpa's excellent 3-4 season 'SL Activ' mountain boots all year round in Snowdonia. The substantial redesign over previous incarnations of the SL has resulted in a supremely tough, yet extremely comfortable and supportive boot that has proven equally at home squelching through bogs, steamrollering across rock fields or tackling low-grade winter scrambles with a pair of ubiquitous Grivel G10s firmly strapped to the undercarriage. Downsides? Well, the trade off for such bomb-proof construction is a bit of a weight penalty. While not overly excessive, the quoted 1720g for a pair of size 42s (I'm a 44) sure made its presence felt towards the end of a long day in the hills. During gentler forays into other areas of our uplands, the words 'over booted' also sprang to mind...

Scarpa Baltoro GTX. Mmmm, green bits...

Enter the new(ish) Scarpa Baltoro GTX - a Gore-Tex lined, 3 season fabric boot from Scarpa's ZG (Zero Gravity) range, promising light weight (1260g for size 42), out-of-the-box comfort with a precise fit and a decent amount of stiffness from the Vibram sole unit. Initial impressions are very good indeed - they felt very comfortable as soon as I tried them on in the shop, with a fit that is reminiscent of the SL Activ (due no doubt to similar lasts used in their construction). Wandering around the house wearing one Baltoro and one SL Activ (yeah, I know....) highlights both the similarities and the differences - the Baltoro is obviously and noticeabley lighter, a bit roomier due to less overall padding, more flexible and lower cut. As you'd expect then, but it is also obvious that these two very different boots hail from the same stable.

The Baltoro's decent 'lacing system' allows firm support along the full length of the foot, but with plenty of toe waggle room, which I like. The upper section is laced via standard metal hooks, while the lower section uses a mixture of fabric and suede loops - time will tell how these hold out after a few months of repeated pulling and soaking. A well padded collar and firm heel box ensure your foot doesn't slop around like the last tuna sarnie in your lunchbox, so I'm expecting no blisters from these puppies. Construction is top notch, as you'd expect from Scarpa: The suede and fabric uppers are well put together and feel comfortable and supportive (I'm sure there's some snazzily-named technology or other at work here, but as long as they keep my feet in and water out, I'm happy). A decent rubber toe bumper affords protection from errant rocks and, of course, that chunky Vibram sole unit should provide plenty of grip. It also retains enough stiffness for scrambling and general looning about on rocky mountains, while being flexible enough to provide enough comfort for general hill walking. Ideal for those frequent occasions where I have wished for something a bit beefier than trainers but not as full on as the SLs.

My reasons for buying the Baltoros were two-fold - as well as an alternative to my 'big boots' for the majority of 3 season use here in the UK, they should perform superbly when I head out to the Balkans later in the year. Here, hot weather, the occasional downpour and rough, rocky (and often pathless) terrain over 2500m requires a lightweight, waterproof boot with reasonable sole stiffness - I've tried it with trainers and bendier boots and find they just don't cut it over the rougher stuff. I have high hopes for the Baltoros...


Oh, and they've got green bits. I like green bits.

RRP for the Scarpa Baltoro GTX is a penny under £140. With a bit of shopping around and 'price matching' I managed to pick up a pair for £103.


UPDATE:

29/6/13: The boots got their first outing on Helvellyn in dry conditions and performed really well - comfortable and supportive. Very impressed so far.

1/7/13: Second outing, in Wales' Berwyn mountains. After about a mile of walking through wet grass (in gaiters) my feet felt damp. A couple of miles later they were wet through. The boots leak, the left one moreso than the right. I emailed Scarpa on Tuesday before lunch and it is now Thursday and they are yet to respond. In the meantime, I have weighted the left boot down in a sink full of water. After 10 minutes the inside is noticeably wet. After 30 minutes it is soaking.  Not good. I shall give Scarpa another day in which to respond... Ooh, talk of the devil, response received as I write this. Boots going back for examination.

10/7/13: The guys at Scarpa have confirmed a fault with the GoreTex lining of the boots and a replacement pair is winging their way back to me. I'm pleased with that. Thank you to Scarpa for turning things round so quickly.

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Lake District - Helvellyn's Edges, plus a bit - 29/6/13

July 2, 2013, 7:05 am

≫ Next: The Berwyns - Cwm Maen Gwynedd, 1/7/13

≪ Previous: Gear Review: Scarpa Baltoro GTX (UPDATED 10/7/13)

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Many moons ago, back when I had a proper job, I was a member of my employer's informal walking group (in reality five blokes from the Engineering Dept. who would rather be up a hill in Snowdonia than sat in an office throwing biros at each other). One Monday, one of our number, John (name changed to protect the thick), came in raving about a brilliant walk he'd done in the Lakes, up some hill called "Evlin". It took us a short while to work out he was on about Helvellyn and in particular, its Edges: Striding and Swirral. It took us considerably longer to stop ribbing him about his mispronunciation. In his defence, John was a lorry mechanic by trade and the subtle nuances of ancient Cumbric (or indeed modern English) were not something he cared to trouble himself with. No matter, we were suitably enamoured by John's monosyllabic description to give Evlin a go. Quite why we found ourselves atop Scafell Pike a few weeks later, on the group's only venture north, never was fully explained...

Fast forward several years and I am, at last, following in John's footsteps. Ironically, I found myself scaling Helvellyn instead of a planned walk up Scafell Pike with Deb, who is currently out of action following a freak altercation with a shopping trolley. Some odd cosmic forces at play on this one I think. Anyhoo, Helvellyn by Striding Edge and Swirral Edge is a bit of a short day. Never being one to let the drive home take longer than the walk, a few minutes with a map and Google led to the following route:

The route, taken anticlockwise from Patterdale. 12.5 miles, 5000ft of ascent

I parked up at the Patterdale Hotel and walked along the leafy lane into Grisedale. It was overcast and, even at half nine in the morning, very humid as I puffed my way up the path along the north flanks of Grisedale towards the enigmatically named Hole-in-the-Wall.

Along the lane into Grisedale

View to the head of Grisedale from the climb to Hole-in-the-Wall

Call me naive, but I really didn't expect there to be a real live, genuine, bona-fide hole in the wall at Hole-in-the-Wall. I mean, it's not like there's a kitchen at Devil's Kitchen is there?

Hole in the wall at Hole-in-the-Wall

Passing through said hole the ground turned rockier as I made my way along towards Striding Edge. Ahead was a good view of Helvellyn's flatish summit, with the satellite cone of Catstycam out to the right. Red Tarn, situated beneath Helvellyn's crags was still hidden from view at this stage.

Helvellyn (left) and Catstycam (right)

 Following the good path around the inner flanks of Striding Edge, it soon turned upwards to meet the crest and the start of the famous airy section. Here an initial, broad rock pavement gave way to a narrower, more broken section before culminating at a steep downclimb, the Chimney, that needed a bit of easy scrambling to overcome. I stuck to the crest all the way, ignoring the easy flanking path around all the good bits. Views to the right, across Red Tarn to Swirral Edge and Catstycam were more than matched by those down to the left, as Striding Edge plummeted steeply into Nethermost Cove, a hanging valley high above Grisedale. A short climb up a shattered slope later and I soon found myself standing a few metres from Helvellyn's summit.

Initial broad section. Helvellyn ahead, Red Tarn below

Nearing the downclimb at the Chimney

Looking back across the Chimney to Striding Edge

View back to Striding Edge from the final summit pull

Hmm, is that it? While the crossing of Striding Edge was certainly enjoyable, I was hoping for a bit more excitement. Even the wind that materialised as I was half way across could only muster a half-arsed attempt at knocking me off balance. I hurried across the summit area to the cairn that marks the descent down Swirral Edge. I clambered down and made the short climb up to Catstycam at the other end of the ridge. I spent a few moments enjoying the view from this fine, compact top before retracing my steps up Swirral Edge to Helvellyn summit once more. By now the cloud had dropped, so I hurried on, heading south.

Catstycam and Red Tarn from the top of Swirral Edge

Fine view towards Ullswater from Catstycam

Looking back up Swirral Edge as the cloud closes in

Striding Edge above Red Tarn

Helvellyn summit in cloud

The cloud began to lift as I made my way over to Nethermost Pike, providing wonderful, fleeting views as it swirled across the tops. The broad, well-trod path appeared to bypass the tops on its journey south, so I ignored it. Instead I stuck close to the edge of the east-facing crags for the best views as I continued over Nethermost Pike and on to the delightfully named Dollywaggon Pike.

Cloud swirling round Nethermost Pike

Striding Edge appearing through the cloud

Nethermost Pike and its impressive crags

Striding Edge over Nethermost Cove, with Grisedale far below

View along Grisedale from Nethermost Pike

Next stop Dollywaggon Pike. Fairfield in view behind

From Dollywaggon Pike I rejoined the path for its descent to Grisedale Tarn, my intended lunch spot. The path seemed to take an age to reach the tarn shore, its tortuous, extended zig-zags seemingly purposely designed to keep me from my cheese and beetroot sarnies. For hour upon hour I trudged wearily on, head down and with heavy feet. I seemed to be aimlessly traversing steep, grassy slopes. Endlessly plodding backwards and forwards above the tarn, it never growing closer. Vultures circled overhead, waiting to pick me off (with hindsight, they were probably meadow pipits). Eventually, some time later (probably Wednesday), I reached Grisedale Tarn and 'did lunch'.

Grisedale Tarn - same view for ages

Suitably fortified, I picked up the path leading to Deepdale Hause, low point on the ridge between Farifield and St. Sunday Crag. The views back across to Grisedale Tarn and the Helvellyn ridge from this path were quite spectacular.

Dollwaggon Pike's Falcon Crag towering over upper Grisedale

Dollywaggon Pike and a distant Helvellyn above Striding Edge

View back to Grisedale Tarn and Dollywaggon Pike

Nethermost Pike and Helvellyn above Grisedale

 From the hause I headed up along the whaleback ridge of St. Sunday Crag, over several false summits until I finally reached the real one. Here, the sun finally came out and was at my back for the descent back to Patterdale. This passed without incident. Mostly. If you ignore the crawl along a precarious ledge on a crag, after I somehow mislaid the most obvious, path-shaped path in pathdom. I took little comfort in the fact that I obviously wasn't alone in this little off-piste adventure, if the scratches, teeth marks and bloodstains on the rock were any indication. And the pile of bodies at the foot of the crag. Thornhow End indeed. You have my sympathies Mr/Mrs/Ms/Dr Thornhow, whoever you were. Not a nice way to meet your end. Perhaps Striding Edge was plenty exciting enough after all...

Looking back to Fairfield from St. Sunday Crag's slopes

Ullswater view from St. Sunday Crag

St. Sunday Crag views

Nearly back at Patterdale, with only one life-threatening bit to go

The Berwyns - Cwm Maen Gwynedd, 1/7/13

July 5, 2013, 3:34 am

≫ Next: Snowdonia - (How to get lost on the) Nantlle Ridge, 6/7/13

≪ Previous: Lake District - Helvellyn's Edges, plus a bit - 29/6/13

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When a stranger approaches you via the internet and asks to meet you on some remote Welsh hillside, I did what any sane person would do and got myself a packed lunch ready. In reality, Bill and I had been in contact for a while, since discovering a common interest in hill walking, Macedonia and that rarest of combinations; hill walking in Macedonia. Bill had organised a long weekend of walking in the Berwyns and I was pleased to be able to join him for the Monday walk - a circuit of Cwm Maen Gwynedd. This was one that'd been on my 'to do' list for quite some time.

Anticlockwise route - 9.5 miles and 2700ft of ascent

I arrived early for the 11am rendezvous at Tyn-y-Ffridd farm and proceeded to get eaten alive by midges. A good time to try out the midge deflecting properties of my fancy new Berghaus Velum jacket. My word it was yellow when out in daylight! If the midges weren't put off attacking me, at least they'd be blinded by the experience. It's amazing what you're prepared to wear out on the hills, especially when bought at half price.  I even managed to out-yellow a huge dragonfly that was parked in the hedge next to me.

Golden-ringed Dragonfly

Bill soon arrived, along with friends Cliff and Mark. After introductions we were off up the steep lane, through a dog-infested farmyard and out into the fields beyond: first stop Mynydd Tarw.

Stiff climb up to Mynydd Tarw

After a good mile of uphill toil we reached the top of Mynydd Tarw and picked up a good path through the grass and heather. This led westwards towards the main Berwyn ridge, taking in the tops of Foel Wen and Tomle on the way.

Heading for Foel Wen. Cadair Berwyn in mist in the background.

Squelching along towards Tomle

 The going was easy if a little wet at times, with the occasional light shower blowing in. A real highlight was a male hen harrier that rose from the moor ahead of us and lazily flapped away into the valley. Fantastic! This was the second hen harrier I'd seen in the Berwyns in as many weeks, the last one being during a drive up the Hirnant pass above Lake Vyrnwy. The Berwyns never disappoint with the array of wildlife on offer.

As we neared the final pull onto the main Berwyn ridge the cloud came down, obscuring all views... We carried on along the clifftop path above Craig Berwyn, with only the occasional glimpse through swirling cloud into the valley below. Passing over the secondary summit with its trig point, we soon reached the rocky upthrust of the main summit. As we did so, the clouds began to lift and finally gave us the views thus far denied.

Bill, Cliff and Mark at Cadair Berwyn's summit

View to Llyn Lluncaws

View back along Craig Berwyn above Cwm Maen Gwynedd

 From Cadair Berwyn we made the short out-and-back detour to nearby Moel Sych, before heading down the narrow, grassy rake that cuts through the cliffs to the bwlch at Moel yr Ewig. Here, sheltered from the wind up top, we stopped for lunch.

Heading back from Moel Sych

From Moel yr Ewig, more grassy ridge walking took us towards the prominent hump of Godor. The views back towards the main ridge across this expansive upland were marvellous, with a real sense of wilderness.

View back to the main ridge

View down towards Tan-y-pistyll - usual start point for Cadair Berwyn

Grass soon gave way to peaty bog and the deepest grough I've ever come across in Wales. Bill dived in first, as I readied my camera. Alas, a comedy moment was denied, as the base of this peaty hag was deceptively firm. The final walk up to Godor was through acres of cotton grass, gently swaying in the breeze, with a backdrop of the main Berwyn ridge. Very wild and desolate.

Bill in a peaty hole

Cotton grass aplenty on Godor

From Godor, the return to the start was through sheep pasture. Here, in true Berwyns fashion, the cloud dispersed and the sun came out, allowing fine views across Cwm Maen Gwynedd to the morning's route of ascent. A farm track was soon met and followed back to the lane where the vehicles were parked.

'We went thataway' - Bill points out the route up Mynydd Tarw

Farm track through wild flower meadow back to the start

Despite the less than perfect weather, this was a great walk with fine company. As usual, the Berwyns don't fail to impress and I was pleased to finally tick off this route on to the familiar main ridge. And of course it was great to meet Bill at last! Who says internet dating doesn't work?!

Snowdonia - (How to get lost on the) Nantlle Ridge, 6/7/13

July 8, 2013, 4:25 am

≫ Next: Lake District - The Scafells from Borrowdale, 13/7/13

≪ Previous: The Berwyns - Cwm Maen Gwynedd, 1/7/13

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Of all Snowdonia's lofty ridges, the Nantlle Ridge must win the accolade of most mispronounced. It is also probably the finest, its quivering crest running across a chain of mini mountains for around 4 miles as the crow flies, only dropping below the 2000ft contour a couple of times in the process. The views and the walking are fantastic and a return visit was long overdue. With a mini-heatwave predicted, I'd hoped for a traverse of the Nantlle Ridge from Rhyd Ddu (or Nantul Ridge from Rid Doo, if you prefer), with a return by the pretty Cwm Pennant and a chance to cool off exploring some old mine workings. I'd even packed my headtorch in the hope of some subterranean adventure. However, despite encouraging blue skies and swirling valley mist on the drive into Capel Curig, things got altogether more dismal on the drive down Nant Gwynant. It was under gloomy, grey clouds that I pulled into the layby in Rhyd Ddu at the foot of Y Garn (no, not that one). Great...

As things transpired, I ended up doing a double traverse of the Nantlle Ridge, from Y Garn at the north eastern end to Mynydd Graig Goch at the south western extremity, and back again. The route came in at just over 14 miles with 6000ft of ascent, due in part to a couple of unintended geographical displacements early on. (I got lost...)

The route starting and ending top right. 14 miles and 6000ft of ascent

 The pull to the top of Y Garn, the first peak of the Nantlle Ridge, is probably the toughest ascent of the day. The path rises steeply, gaining around 1400ft in the first mile. I was, at this stage, quite glad that the sun wasn't blazing down on me as forecast and although it was still quite warm and humid, about two thirds of the way up I entered the refreshing coolness of the cloud base. I soon reached to summit of Y Garn to find it deserted. And barely visible, such was the cloud cover. I stood at the edge of the promontory, peering into nothing, disappointed at the lack of view. Still, I was hopeful that conditions would improve later. Preferably before I got back to the car...

Stunning view across to Mynydd Mawr. Sometimes.

Despite the lack of visibility, I wasn't unduly concerned about route finding. I was on a ridge after all - how hard could it be!? I remember from my last visit that a wall runs along to the next summit of Mynydd Drws-y-Coed. Just follow the wall then. Simple...

Follow the wall to Mynydd Drws-y-Coed...

"Strange" I thought, "I don't remember this much descent" as I followed the wall steeply down a terraced path through grass and heather. Time to check my location. Well, bugger me if there aren't two walls leading from the top of Y Garn! Needless to say, I was following the wrong one, heading down Y Garn's north west ridge towards the valley from whence I came. A quick about turn and climb back up hill saw me locate the correct wall and back on track, giggling to myself as I went.

Mynydd Drws-y-Coed was soon reached and the enjoyable scramble up its rocky crest, on the very edge of the huge precipices above the Nantlle valley was over too quickly, although extra care was required today as some of the rocks were quite greasy. I continued round the grassy rim and climbed to the next top of Trum y Ddysgl. From here I marvelled at the awesome 360 degree views...

Awesome views from Trum y Ddysgl

Head down, I continued, following the faint path through the grass. Up next was the narrow, grassy ridge across to Mynydd Tal-y-Mignedd, with it's characteristic notch, as if some giant has taken a bite out of the narrowest part of the ridge. The notch never came...

Bugger! Done it again... I checked my location and found myself most of the way down Trum y Ddysgl's grassy south spur. Another about turn and I was soon puffing my way back up steeply to the main ridge. Ouch. As I reached the path junction I saw another figure in the mist, checking his map and in danger of making the same mistake! "It's that way" I said, pointing off to the west. We walked together, my new companion and I, both disappointed in the weather. It turned out that Tim (that was his name) also hailed from the West Midlands and his usual walking partner is good friends with my brother-in-law. Small world! We soon crossed the notch and reached the top of Mynydd Tal-y-Mignedd, its characteristic Jubilee Tower barely visible in the clag. We carried on down the steep descent into Bwlch Dros-bern and soon popped out of the clouds to be greeted with the first views since the start of the walk.

Views at last on the descent to Bwlch Dros-bern

 At the bwlch Tim and I parted company, as he'd decided to cut his losses and head back to Rhyd Ddu via Cwm Pennant. I carried on towards Craig Cwm Silyn, which rises from the far side of the bwlch by way of a steep buttress that has a wall running up to its base. A bypass path swings out to the right, flanking round the worst of the rocks, whereas an easy grade 1 scramble heads up ledges in the middle of the buttress. However, Steve Ashton's excellent book, Helicopter Rescues in Snowdonia (a.k.a. Scrambles in Snowdonia) states that the rocks directly above the wall can be climbed at Grade 2, so this is the route I took. It was straightforward enough, with some exciting situations made all the more exciting by virtue of the slightly damp rock.

"Scramble directly above the wall at Grade 2"

View into upper Cwm Pennant from the climb to Craig Cwm Silyn

From the top of the scramble I joined the upper reaches of the flanking path and followed it back up into cloud, to the summit rocks.

From Craig Cwm Silyn I set off across the plateau on a bearing, heading for Garnedd Goch. I soon picked up a wall and followed it, after first checking there was no other wall up there to lead me astray! Unless I was very much mistaken, it looked like the cloud might at last lift. I got a few tantalising glimpses down the awesome Great Stone Shoot into Cwm Silyn. Awesome.

Brief glimpse down the Great Stone Shoot into Cwm Silyn

Garnedd Goch summit ahead.

Garnedd Goch is/was the traditional end of the Nantlle Ridge traverse. However, Mynydd Graig Goch, the last outpost in the chain some mile or two to the south west was now temptingly close. This summit was recently elevated to mountain status following a resurvey and, after coming this far, I thought it would be a shame not to visit. I began the steep, rough descent from Garnedd Goch, heading south for the small, rocky trench of Bwlch Cwmdulyn.

Heading down Garnedd Goch. Llyn Cwm Dulyn far below

Cloud lifting and Mynydd Graig Goch summit finally visible

From Bwlch Cwmdulyn I swung west across broad, flat grasslands leading easily up to the rocky crest of Mynydd Graig Goch. At last, the sun came out and the cloud looked like it would finally disperse. The jagged rocky crest of Mynydd Graig Goch made a fine place for lunch, with panoramic vistas over the Lleyn Peninsula and across to Anglesey. I tried to block out the exceedingly steep looking reascent of Garnedd Goch from the view...

Lunchtime views over Yr Eifl and the Lleyn

View towards Anglesey

The stiff climb back up Garnedd Goch. Oh joy.

Coastal views

There was no point delaying the inevitable so I headed back the way I came, over Bwlch Cwmdulyn and up the rough slopes to Garnedd Goch. A pair of peregrines circled overhead, providing a good excuse for a moment's rest while I watched them. Upon finally reaching the top I was heartened to see all trace of cloud had lifted from the ridge and the sun was out. It was at that point I decided to abandon plans to head down into Cwm Pennant and resolved instead to retrace my steps along the Nantlle ridge, enjoying the views previously denied.

View down the rocky trench of Bwlch Cwmdulyn

Clear views back to Mynydd Graig Goch from Garnedd Goch

Clear views back across to Craig Cwm Silyn and beyond

   Sticking to the northern edge of the plateau I headed back to Craig Cwm Silyn's top, enjoying fantastic views down the great crags to Llynnau Cwm Silyn, sparkling far below.

Clear views down the Great Stone Shoot

Llynnau Cwm Silyn

View back across Craig yr Ogof to Garnedd Goch

From Craig Cwm Silyn I began the descent back to Bwlch Dros-bern, now with the classic view of the Nantlle Ridge spread out before me. Still quite some distance to go. However, of more immediate concern was the stiff pull up onto Mynydd Tal-y-Mignedd! There was nothing else to do other than pop a bag of emergency Haribo and get on with it. Eventually the ground levelled out and I strolled across the grassy shoulder up to the Jubilee Tower, now considerably more visible than it had been that morning.

Nantlle Ridge ahoy, from Craig Cwm Silyn

Moel Hebog losing its cloudy cap to the east

Jubilee Tower on Mynydd Tal-y-Mignedd

View back to the imposing lump of Craig Cwm Silyn. Yr Eifl distant right

The way on, across the grassy ridge and 'notch' so impressively missed that morning, lead to another steep pull onto Trum y Ddysgl. Thankfully, though some climbs remained, the worst was now over with and I ambled along happily on the grassy rim above huge drops towards Mynydd Drws-y-Coed.

Grassy ridge up to Trum y Ddysgl

Grassy ridge up to Trum y Ddysgl

View back to Trum y Ddysgl before the climb to Mynydd Drws-y-Coed

Steep crags on Mynydd Drws-y-Coed

Mynydd Drws-y-Coed summit with a view to Snowdon and chums

Rather than following the path around the scrambly bits on the north side of Mynydd Drws-y-Coed, I decided to reverse the morning's route, down climbing the edge of the crags. While a little harder than going up, the now dry rocks provided much more grip than hours earlier. However, the view between my feet of the valley floor several hundred metres below was a little disconcerting on more than one occasion!

The walk back to Y Garn, alongside the glaringly obvious wall, now provided fantastic views across the valley to Mynydd Mawr and back along the northern end of the ridge, over the recently trod rocky upthrust of Mynydd Drws-y-Coed to Trum y Ddysgl.

View back over Mynydd Drws-y-Coed to Trum y Ddysgl

Mynydd Mawr from Y Garn

View back along the Nantlle Ridge from a well concealed wall

The way down from Y Garn was by way of the path taken in ascent, a tiresome, knee-wrecking plod down slatey gutters that somehow seemed to take longer in descent than ascent. The fact that I could see my car all the way down and knew what treats that lay within didn't help. Mmmm, ice cold Lilt...

View across Llyn y Dywarchen to Moel Eilio on the way down Y Garn

View back to Y Garn from the start/finish point

Although a long, tiring day, this was an absolutely fantastic walk. It would be less long and tiring if I hadn't been so navigationally challenged in the early stages. It would also be more fantastic if the morning hadn't been shrouded in cloud. However, that combination would possible make it too fantastic such that all future walks would be lacking in relative fantastication (that's a real word, I checked). In that respect I am happy that it panned out the way it did. Shall I shut up now? I think I should shut up now.

Lake District - The Scafells from Borrowdale, 13/7/13

July 18, 2013, 6:36 am

≫ Next: Lake District - Scafell Pike via Skew Gill scramble, 3/8/13

≪ Previous: Snowdonia - (How to get lost on the) Nantlle Ridge, 6/7/13

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A trip up England's highest had been on the cards for sometime. Initial postponements had come about due to bad weather. However, it was Deb's recent altercation with a shopping trolley that has seen us put the trip off for the last few weeks. Broken toes and walking boots do not a happy combination make unsurprisingly and Deb is still out of action some four weeks after the event. However, with sunshine and soaring temperatures on the cards I really fancied a walk in the Lakes. Besides, it would be the ideal opportunity to check the route out for when Deb was finally able to come with me. I'd decided on tackling Scafell Pike from Borrowdale via the Corridor Route, with an out-and-back trip to Scafell before returning to the Pike to visit the northern tops on the way back. So this little piggy went to walk it, while Deb's little piggy cried 'wee wee wee' and stayed at home.

After rising at 4am(!), an uneventful pootle up the M6 saw me arrive at the roadhead in Seathwaite at 8:30am, struggling to find a parking space. I thought this odd, since Keswick and Borrowdale had been virtually deserted on the drive in. Still, after commandeering a suitable patch of verge I booted up and set off up the track towards Stockley Bridge. Despite the amount of cars parked at Seathwaite, there weren't many people about and it was to stay like this until the final pull up to the Pike.   

The track from Seathwaite. Glaramara rising left, Seathwaite Fell on the right

Stockley Bridge beneath Seathwaite Fell's Aaron Crags

It was already very hot and humid and as the path turned up hill towards Greenhow Knott, I began to feel it. The Met Office had issued dire warnings to mental canines and the indiginous population about the heat, so I'd come prepared, packing both a hat and an extra can of Lilt in my rucksack...oh yes.

The path soon levelled out again as it passed alongside Styhead Gill. A light breeze wafted down the valley, providing some much needed respite as I continued along, past Styhead Tarn to the meeting of various paths at Sty Head.

Alongside Styhead Gill. Lingmell and Scafell Pike's summit slope ahead

A box. For stretchers. At Sty Head. Scafell Pike & Lingmell beyond

From Sty Head I picked up the Corridor Route, following it across the western flanks of the Pike and up towards Lingmell Col. The path was easy going throughout, with a couple of rocky steps to contend with as it passed across the head of some impressive gills, most notably the deep ravine of Piers Gill.

View back along the Corridor Route towards Great Gable

The impressive head of Piers Gill

 I soon reached the T-junction at Lingmell Col to be met with the first significant crowds of the day, as I joined the be-flip-flopped throng heading up from Wasdale on the final pull to the summit.

View along to Broad Crag & Great End from the final pull to Scafell Pike

View across Lingmell & Piers Gill towards Great Gable

It was a relief to reach the rocky plateau that makes up the top of Scafell Pike, after the uphill toil in high temperatures. The actual summit was just a short walk away and fairly busy - perhaps about half a Snowdon. (It seems only right that since the standardised unit of geographical area is the Wales*, as in "an area about twice the size of Wales", that the standard for mountain summit crowdedness be assessed in Snowdons).

* Apparently a new EU ruling will soon see the 'Wales' replaced by the 'Belgium'. A Belgium is roughly one and a half times the size of Wales.

Scafell Pike summit rock pile

The view northeast, to be visited later

The view southwest to Scafell, to be visited next

After a quick break at the summit, I headed off across the rocks towards Mickledore, the narrow col separating Scafell Pike from Scafell. I'd planned to climb Scafell by Lord's Rake and the West Wall Traverse, before returning to Mickledore either the same way, or by the Foxes Tarn path. I paused at Mickledore for a while, enjoying the awesome view across to the infamous Broad Stand and Scafell's towering cliffs, heaving with climbers scaling all manner of improbable routes. From the end of Mickledore, right below Scafell's soaring buttresses, I dropped down to the right to pick up a narrow path that skirted below the crags to deposit me at the base of the impressive gully of Lord's Rake.

Looking across Mickledore towards Scafell. Lord's Rake rising far right

Path from Mickledore to Lord's Rake

Lord's Rake has a bit of a reputation for being full of loose rock and harbouring a dislodged pinnacle, precariously balanced at the top of the first rise. This pinnacle is apparently in danger of falling down the rake at any time. It's been in danger of falling down the rake at any time for over 10 years now, so I wasn't unduly concerned. It only looked tiddly anyway from the bottom of the rake (in reality it's about the size of a large car and would probably be a bit fatal if it fell on you). The climb up Lord's Rake was, erm... entertaining. It was fairly steep but very loose and I was mindful of not sending a shower of rock down with every step, especially as a young couple were following me up. But my word, what an impressive place.

View down Lord's Rake from part way up

The pinnacle at the top of Lord's Rake. Still standing.

 As I reached the pinnacle, hands covered in red dirt and sweating profusely following the climb up, I turned to the left to locate a narrow path rising off into the depths of Deep Gill - the West Wall Traverse. At that moment, a curious whisp of cloud curled up into the gill, almost smoke like in its movement, beckoning me on into the very depths of the mountain. Righty ho.

View up the West Wall Traverse from Lord's Rake

View back across to the Pike, now in cloud, from the West Wall Traverse

View back to the top of Lord's Rake

Onwards and upwards into Deep Gill

Easy walking up the narrow shelf of the West Wall Traverse lead through some impressive rock scenery into the bed of Deep Gill. This was climbed (mainly steep walking but with some easy, scrambly rises) to a loose-ish exit that popped me back into daylight a few metres away from the summit of Scafell. What a great way to access Englands second highest peak!

Starry Saxifrage growing on the rocks of Deep Gill

View down Deep Gill from near the exit

I made my way over to the summit to have my sandwiches just as the cloud came down, obscuring the views in all directions. Typical. Suitably satiated, I mulled over the options for my return to Scafell Pike. I didn't really fancy heading down via Lord's Rake because it would be just too loose to be enjoyable. That only left the Foxes Tarn path... shame it loses so much height, thus entailing a stiff pull back up to Mickledore. Still, at least the uphill bits do you good. Apparently.

Brief view into upper Eskdale from the descent of the Foxes Tarn path

From Mickledore I retraced my steps to the summit plateau of Scafell Pike, now much busier than before. Bypassing the summit I headed over to the northern edge of the plateau to gawp at the view before rejoining the path and heading off to the next top - Broad Crag.

Back up to Scafell Pike, with a view back to Scafell

View north from the summit, over the Corridor Route to Great Gable

Next stop - Broad Crag

View down Little Narrowcove below Ill Crag summit

After crossing the col at the head of Little Narrowcove, that separates the Pike from Broad Crag, I left the path to clamber up rocks to the summit of the latter. From there I zig-zagged on over to the summit of Ill Crag, exploring its craggy Eskdale-facing frontage and marvelling at the impressive view to Scafell Pike from its rocky top.

Scafell Pike from Ill Crag

View down upper Eskdale, over the rocky point of Pen from Ill Crag

Rejoining the path briefly, I carried on before heading off-piste again to make for the last top in the chain, that of Great End - a fitting name I thought, as I stood on the rim of its huge north facing cliffs, admiring the far ranging views over Borrowdale to Derwentwater, backed by Skiddaw & Blencathra.

Heading for Great End with views to Pillar between Lingmell & Great Gable

Borrowdale and beyond over Seathwaite Fell, from Great End

View back to Scafell Pike from Great End

Glaramara viewed across one of Great End's gullies

Sprinkling Tarn far below

Langdale Pikes (L) and Bowfell beyond Esk Pike (R) from Great End

From Great End I ambled down rocky slopes to the meeting of ways at Esk Hause, before picking up the good path that led down alongside Ruddy and Grains Gills, back to Stockley Bridge and eventually Seathwaite. Off the tops and in the shelter of the surrounding fells things got even hotter and it was with some relief that I eventually got back to the car and was able to give the air con a good workout!

View down Ruddy Gill back towards Seathwaite

View back up Grains Gill from Stockley Bridge

 The walk came in at 13 miles, with over 4900ft of ascent and took 7 hours including food and photo stops. Very enjoyable, with great scenery throughout but best done in slightly cooler weather!

Lake District - Scafell Pike via Skew Gill scramble, 3/8/13

August 9, 2013, 9:38 am

≫ Next: Snowdonia - Tryfan's Milestone Gully & the Bochlwyd Horseshoe, 10/8/13

≪ Previous: Lake District - The Scafells from Borrowdale, 13/7/13

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My regular reader may remember that Deb has been out of action for a while with a bosted toe. This, in conjuction with a precipitant June, had meant that her desire to scale Scafell Pike as part of a National 3 Peaks challenge of which the Slow Movement would be proud, had to be delayed (Fear not! We are still on target for completion within the planned 3 years, providing we can drag ourselves up Ben Nevis next year). Now, finally, after many weeks of being confined to the living hell that is the flip-flop, Deb was able to don her boots and walk about with only minor discomfort. Scafell Pike it is then....

I'd already been up the Scafells a couple of weeks previously to suss out the Corridor Route from Seathwaite. At the time I thought this fine route would make a better descent, with its gentle gradient and fab views over to Great Gable. With that in mind, for today's walk I sought a suitably entertaining way up on to the tops that wouldn't involve too much covering of the same ground. That way came in the form of Skew Gill, a deep ravine and grade 1 scramble that leaves the early stages of the Corridor Route and breaks out into daylight half way up Great End...

The route: Loop taken clockwise. 12 miles and 4100ft of ascent

 We arrived at the end of the lane outside Seathwaite Farm quite late and had to backtrack quite a way to find a patch of verge on which to park at this popular spot. We were soon on our way, ambling along the track to Stockley Bridge - familiar surroundings for me as I'd been up there a couple of weeks earlier. It was overcast and warm, with a refreshing breeze that was to reach almost gale-like proportions on higher ground later in the day.

Deb on the way to Stockley Bridge. Seathwaite Fell in the background

Some handsome fella Deb photographed along the way

Deb on Stockley Bridge below Seathwaite Fell

 After the short, steep pull up beside Taylorgill Force, we were on the easy path alongside Styhead Gill, heading for the meeting of ways at Sty Head. From Sty Head we caught our first glimpse of Skew Gill - a deep, dark incision into The Band, Great End's northern spur.

Deb at Styhead Tarn. Great End in cloud behind

The deep ravine of Skew Gill, rising into the cloud

View back along the ascent route from Sty Head, across Styhead Tarn

To access Skew Gill we headed off along the first few hundred metres of the Corridor Route. After an initial drop in height and subsequent short climb, the base of the gill soon appeared as a bouldery gully rising up to the left. We left the path here and headed up across the boulders.

On the Corridor Route with Skew Gill rising to the left. Lingmell ahead

Deb at the start of the Skew Gill climb

Me on the way up Skew Gill's lower reaches

 The lower section of Skew Gill is wide, dry and boulder-choked. The route heads straight up over the boulders and, initially, very little use of the hands is required. As height is gained the walls close in and short rises of scrambling punctuate the walking sections. Higher still and things get narrower and steeper. And wetter, for now a water course fills the rocky bed. The best (and often only) route sticks to the water as much as possible. Here we found the water-washed rock offered more grip than the slimy surroundings. Occasional detours over narrow, grassy shelves avoided the most impregnable or slimy walls but for the most part, our route took a direct line up steep rock rises, furnished with plenty of holds (and water!) and in fantastic surroundings.

Short rises of scrambling punctuate the lower reaches

Occasional detours onto grass avoid impassable sections

Occasional, narrow shelves overcome obstacles

Time to get wet with a scramble up a small waterfall

More soggy scrambling up the gill bed

Steep walls in the upper reaches of Skew Gill

Things continued in the narrower/steeper/wetter vein for a while, until a left turn in the gill bed signified that we were near the end. Only one obstacle remained - the steepest wall so far which, upon first sight looked a bit daunting. However, a few moment's investigation soon revealed a straightforward, if slightly exposed way up onto a loose scree chute which finally fanned out onto a grassy bay at the top of The Band

Final steep wall before popping out into daylight

Plotting a route round the slimy bits

Over the steepest part

Final exposed traverse onto a loose scree gully

We reached the top of The Band, half way up Great End, to be met with sunlight and fine views over Seathwaite Fell to Borrowdale, from whence we came. We still had a bit of a climb to reach Great End's summit and a faint path led the way through grass then up around rock slabs and outcrops. We left the path to scramble easily up the slabs and zig zag up grassy ledges, before regaining it again shortly before it reached the summit boulder field. Here we broke for lunch, sheltered from the now stiffening wind.

View over Sprinkling Tarn to Glaramara from the top of The Band

The Langdale Pikes rise behind Allen Crags, from the climb up Great End

We popped out onto a deserted Great End summit into strong winds. The cloud that had shrouded the top earlier had lifted. Just. The continuation over to Ill Crag and Scafell Pike was still hidden in cloud and despite a few promising signs, was to stay that way. We headed up the Pike, now alongside many others on the main path over the plateau. The cloud did its best to hide the swarms, but it was obvious we were two of many making the journey to England's highest today. We didn't hang around on the summit - just long enough for Deb to add another photo to her 'Trig points wot I have climbed' album before wandering off in the general direction of Scafell.

Heading for clouds, crowds and England's highest from Great End

On top of England

Busy summit

We wandered aimlessly over in the general direction of Pulpit Rock, at the top of Pikes Crag, in the hope that we might be treated to a view. And treated we were, as the cloud suddenly lifted from Scafell's mighty northern cliffs.

View across Wast Water to the coast, from Pulpit Rock

Scafell's impressive northern aspect, with Lord's Rake rising centre-right

View over to Great Gable. Lingmell looking green and dandy on the left

We skirted round the top of Pikes Crag, despite the strong winds doing their best to send us back up to the summit and soon met up with the tourist path heading down to Wasdale via Lingmell Col. We followed it down until the cairned turn off onto the Corridor Route. However, instead of following the latter back to Sty Head, we first decided to do a quick out-and-back up to the top of Lingmell. This short, easy climb was well worth the detour as the summit provided absolutely jaw dropping bird's eye views down deeply riven slopes into the very depths of Piers Gill. An airy, protruding finger of rock provided a fine vantage point over proceedings.

View from Lingmell down Piers Gill.

Enjoying the view from Lingmell to Styhead Tarn from an airy perch

From Lingmell we retraced our steps to the col and swung off cross-country to meet the Corridor Route. Dappled sunlight swept across the fellside, while the top of the Pike remained in thick cloud as we picked our way across the top of Piers Gill and along the good path back to Styhead. From here we retraced the morning's route back to Seathwaite.

Sunlight and cloud on Lingmell Col

Crossing the head of Piers Gill. Lingmell rising left

Deb ambling along the Corridor Route

A fine day's walking which, through late start and judicious route choice, was remarkably crowd free (apart from the unavoidable numpty zone around Scafell Pike's summit). Skew Gill and Lingmell were unexpected highlights of the day. As was the coffee at Tebay services. My God, there's some caffeine in that. It gave me a hurty head.